LEJOG 2017

So, the prep is done - see:therealtonylane3.blogspot.co.uk/

This blog will be updated with latest day at the top of the page. I hope that helps

After an uneventful 17 mile ride we arrived. So many emotions!


Its over, but the memories will be with us forever......well with me it will be via this blog and I hope/expect that Kathy, and our photos, will prompt great recollections for me.


As we left JOG the heavens opened. We won! The rain gods lost, the taxi van was warm and dry.

..........

The highs.

Finishing......and the joy of achievement and completion.
Seeing the excitement in Kathy's eyes on so many occasions.
White water rafting.
The ferry across the Mersey.......and Kathy singing happily without realising.
To find so many nice folk as we travelled between and arrived in, our nightly accommodation of choice.

The lows.

Finishing......and the strange, unexpected feeling of loss.
Not getting to see my siblings, though they were soooo close.
The noisy people at Llangollen and Carnforth campsites.
Missing out on meeting Bryan S.

The people.

There are so many to mention, I dare not name names, lest I omit someone.....but thank you all, relatives, friends ..... old and new and not forgetting the fellow travelling folk, thank you for spending your precious time with us and, unwittingly??, helping to encourage us along our way with your time, laughs, kindness and words.

The scenery.

We have seen spectacular places, objects and scenery and 'wowed' more than anyone has a right to in such a short period of time. Cornwall, The Mendips, Gloucestershire, Shropshire, Bala, Liverpool, the Lakes, nearly every inch of Scotland and, of course, the osprey.

The scares.

Brake failure while descending off Kirkstone Pass
An idiot driver near Glen Coe.....causing Kathy to use an un-holy word. Much worse than the word she used while talking to Father Neil, in Glasgow 😂

The beard and donors.

The beard..... Never again! 😀 but many thanks to Suzie for the £20 'dare/sponsorship' going towards Mum's/Kathy's justgiving fundraising for the hospital that provides me (and others) with the ongoing support that is needed.
To all the donors, especially those early supporters who stuck with us even during the months when the signs were that Kathy was very unwell and a cancellation was a high possibility.


The lessons.

Dream......Want.......Believe
Planning works.
Be flexible.
Allow oneself a luxury or two.
Mistakes happen
Have a plan B

Enjoy the small pleasures
Never complete the bucket list, let there always be an idea to pursue.

Last, but not least, Kathy.

WHAT a lady! The love, care and support she showers on me is beyond any experience of sharing that I have ever encountered. To have the good fortune to be with such a lady who happily digs deep, mentally and physically to achieve our joint goal has been humbling.
The goodness that Kathy oozes, daily.....to me, and others, is inspirational and I try to emulate her gentle, loving, caring and gracious manner.....but rarely succeed......and never a negative comment is passed about my many failings.





Thanks for reading. Its been very enjoyable writing about our days' highs ....... and highs. I really hope you have enjoyed our journey through the UK as much as we have enjoyed sharing it with you.

Our next blog will be about a trip to the Pyrenees.....keep in touch. Bye for now.

To Wick

The forecast promised sunny spells and a 6mph breeze from the southeast. Perfect.
We left our accommodation turning left to our first 1 mile climb of the day.......and straight into a 15 mph wind coming from the northeast.
For 6 weeks, with few exceptions, we have enjoyed the benefit of a following breeze, so we have not complained to the wind gods..... as we have some cycling to do tomorrow. The sun failed to appear due to a sea mist, but that avoided the risk of me overheating.......there's always a positive if you look carefully!

So, cooled by the mist and northeasterly wind we climbed .... and climbed......on the long slopes while also tackling the wind. The descents were short and sharp and all led to a further long climb. Clearly the hill gods were having a final attempt to stop us, but we would not be beaten.
All morning we bent over the handlebars leaning into the hills and wind and 2 hours later, tired, we entered Briesdale......the steep descent with a nasty 90 degree turn at the bottom.
We began the descent stopping half way to cool the brakes and the resulting hissing and steam told us our terrifying lesson on Kirkstone Pass was not wasted. Brakes cooled, we cautiously descended to the village bridge to be met by the long steep climb, together with a steeper snapback at the halfway point.

The climbs started to flatten as did the descents, and with the wind refusing to ease we stopped for a brew in a roadside cafe. After ordering our brews, we sat beside a couple from New Zealand. They told us that they had watched us slowly approaching and had been admiring the obvious effort bring exerted.
We had a great chat for 30 minutes or so before heading back into the chilly midday mist. Another hour brought us to Clythe where the hills flattened further and road turned slightly to give us a side wind......and much needed respite.

Soon after the town of Wick could be seen on the horizon....... slightly below us and to our left. The road dropped gently and the wind finally relented to nudge us into town at 20 mph.

The campsite at Wick is just as I remember ....... homely, well run, clean and very welcoming. After a happy chat with the site warden, we pitched, brewed and showered.

When returning to our humble abode, a fellow camper called 'have you cycled far?'
'Today, Helmsdale, 6 weeks ago, Land's End before that Bournemouth'.
'Where in Bournemouth......my daughter lives in Southbourne'.
'Near Pokesdown Station'
'Wow. It's such a small world!'
The normal who, why, what ensued regarding LEJOG ...... after explaining LE and JOG.....and the lady was in awe of our story and trip.
I was called a way to fulfill my evening meal tasks, but not before she took a photograph to send to her grandchildren in Southbourne along with the blog details.

A boost of encouragement, even at this late stage, is always welcome.

Tomorrow we tackle the final 20 hilly miles to JOG where we will meet a pre-booked taxi to recover ourselves and bikes to Wick and relaxation.....and maybe a bottle of wine to celebrate....but that is for tomorrow.

To Brora

Or maybe further. The new plan is to ride to Brora 25 miles away, and if we feel OK, to ignore the plan and push on. Anything we do today, we do not have to do tomorrow.

The wind of yesterday has dropped to near zero and the sun is trying to turn up to full heat already, so I have taken paracetamol, but now the midges are on full attack. We have two anti-midge substances; Smidge, and Skin so Soft by Avon. Both work well, but interestingly, each works better in different places. Today, in Dornoch, its Smidge territory.

We set off in fine spirits after an interesting breakfast. Interesting as neither of us have much of an appetite at the moment, probably because we have eaten so much to keep up the energy levels and are tired of the foods we liked at the start.
My breakfast consisted of a large tin of rice pudding, custard cream biscuits, large chunks of cheese..... and a carton of grapes. Nice, eh?

The main road was wide and traffic was light, so we stuck with the main road saving a 5 mile diversion via Durnoch and other villages.
With regular stops for eats and drinks we found ourselves at a place called The Mound. We pulled into the carpark for another rest to find, to our joy, another magnificent beauty spot, virtually untouched by man. We saw herons fishing, 2 more flying in formation and then an osprey hunting for fish.
As we were about to leave we saw a chap with a set of binoculars as well as a camera with an expensive looking lens. 'Good morning, sir, can we ask, what is of interest to bring out  binoculars and camera?'
Handing me the 'bins' he directed my view to a lone tree, right, white birds, left.......top of tree.....Ospreys nest. Come right, bushes, a mass of herons. What a treat!

We chatted for ages.....45 minutes???.......before, reluctantly, we had to say our goodbyes. I am amazed at how many nice people we meet and, with whom we would love to spend more time.
But, onwards to Dunrobin Castle to be met by a young lad piping in the visitors..... and receiving good tips for his efforts too. The idea was to visit the Castle, but the owners are clearly NOT done with robbing as they wanted £11 from each of us for the pleasure. We used their loos and moved on.

Into Brora we went and Kathy agreed that we keep going 'any extra today, is less for tomorrow' she called. Her logic and spirit cannot be faulted. Her balance and bike control , however......

While moving through an area where roadworks were in full swing, we mounted the pavement so as not to slow the traffic tailing us. The workforces had placed several roadsigns on the side of the path, all which I passed relatively easily.....the 2 separate shouts of ' ouch' told me that Kathy had hit two of these signs, knocking over one of them😀.

Onwards as we alternated the lead, which in theory was a good idea ..... to allow me a rest ...... as we were cycling into a headwind. The theory of a lead cyclist allows the person immediately behind to move at the same speed as the leader, but using 30% less energy. That is, unless you release Kathy to the fore.......in which case you spend 15 minutes cycling at top speed in the hope that she will soon slow to previous speeds.

After the next break I was back in front and stayed there to ensure normality returned. She has amazing power in her little frame!

5 miles of coast road cycling brought us to Helmsdale, a tiny village with a picturesque port and sea front. As there is no campsite, we looked for a BandB but to no avail. We settled for a brew on the quay. Both the owner and cook separately suggested different contacts and we settled for the nearest, The Bannockburn Inn. Links with Culloden, now Bannockburn, in three days.....history on our travels!

At the inn we were met by a lovely couple who made us very welcome and gave us access to sheds and storage areas for our bikes and gear.
When returning from our shopping, we found them struggling with instructions to build a large marquee for the garden. We jumped in to assist as did another chap, who had been in the bar, and before too long the marquee was up and we retired to our accommodation to cook and eat our evening meal.

A very satisfactory day is done.






PS. Our evening in Inverness began well with a nice spot on the Bught Camp site. It improved when we were told that Bryan Adams would be playing later. The evening was completed when we were met by Tony and Jules Butler, who had driven 15 miles into town, then drove us further to Culloden, where we sat to enjoy a rare evening out.
After eating, we were driven back to town and we waved T and J goodbye as they headed a further 15 miles home. Such wonderful and gracious kindness!
The evening itself was 2 hours of endless chat, laughter and fun.....with no-one escaping a ribbing! We both felt very happy that, though meets are rare, due to the 700 miles between our homes, the happy chat was constant and very pleasant, with rarely a pause - as if we met weekly.

Thank you Tony and Jules for completing our stay in Inverness.

To Tain...... or Rain as Kathy called it, all along 😀 .

We left Inverness with a strong wind blowing us along. The same breeze became a hazard as we took a left to get over the high bridge out of town.

Once safely on the other side, we were soon in the beautiful countryside and enjoying the views of rolling hills as the sun shone and the wind eased our efforts. Even the 6 mile slope was climbed with relative ease. Onwards we travelled and in my relaxed state, took an R instead of a L at an X Rd....as it is written in my directions.

The error was initially enjoyed as we were taken down a 2 mile descent, where at a T Junc, the sign told us L for Cromarty........uphill. I swore.......then did so again, very rudely. Kathy, being the angel we all love came out with......'never mind, at least the wind is with us'! Glass half full anyone?

The top of the climb brought us more spectacular views, with unwanted oil rigs seemingly scattered around the estuary. The War-Of-The-World looking beasts stand majestically on their sturdy legs awaiting the chap/ chappess with cutter and blow torch to begin the dismantling process.

From our viewpoint high on the hill, we descended, freewheeling at speeds reaching 27 mph and speeding our way on the pot-holed road, into the tiny village of Cromarty.
We headed for the ferry to see a car struggling to get on board this two car 'boat'. The tide and wind gave the skipper one heck of a job ..... but he finally succeeded..... and he left our shore for the other, 200 metres away.

We waited in the recently started cafe, Slaughterhouse Cafe, (so named as the building was once used for such pleasantries). We sat talking to the Australian owner and sharing tales and talked about the sheep we rescued a few days previously.
He related a similar story from a trip he had taken, back home. He and his wife found a dead kangaroo in the road and after checking the pouch they discovered a 'Joey'. The baby was tucked under his wife's jumper and they drove to a rescue centre where it made a full recovery and was prepped for release/homing.

We all agreed that there is something very satisfying in helping an animal in distress or in need.

While we chatted, the ferry skipper radioied to inform all that the wind was now too strong and tide running too fast to attempt a landing. With the forecast indicating that we would be waiting a further hour or so, we relaxed into general chat with other potential customers. One such person showed us a video clip that they had just taken of dolphins playing just off the beach 5 miles away.......another reason to return to this fabulous part of the UK.

Time soon passed and the ferry dutifully appeared and to our great pleasure we found it to be the ferry we should have used at Renfrew, Glasgow to cross the Clyde. This ferry had moved to Cromarty only a few months previously without a replacement being found in Renfrew. We thought it very fitting that we managed to use the services of the Renfrew Rose, even if it 10 days after we expected.

We eventually crossed the water and left the ferry moving on to more quiet roads and fantastic farming scenery. We passed RAF Nigg???? looking shabby and derelict before we followed left towards Tain. RAF Tain still stands relatively intact, to my knowledge no longer serving a military use. As we tired, we found the town of Tain and headed for the shops.

Kathy was a little 'tense' when we stopped in Tain. 'We have yet to see a road sign for Rain' ..... 'and we have already cycled 43 miles!' Sigh and smile

We found the Dornoch Firth campsite, which though by a road, is clean, tidy and .........they have left the sun shining for us. There are no complaints at all from these two tired cyclists,  not at 7 pm, which has been rain o'clock, over the past 10 days or so. The sky is clear blue and we are wondering if we may catch a site of the northern lights.......or will we be snoring by the time that possibility arises.

For myself the drivers in this area are worthy of high praise. On numerous occasions drivers have waited patiently for us to reach a place where we could all pass comfortably and safely. Thank you Scotland!

To Inverness

Out of camp, right, then in 200 metres begin the 6 mile climb that takes an hour!

Half way, we stopped to admire the spectacular view of Fort Augustus, Loch Ness and surrounding countryside..... Wonderful..... and no-one around to spoil the peace.
As we neared the top we heard a young sheep, bleating repeatedly and it's mother, replying.
We stopped because the constant bleating made us wonder if something was amiss. On closer inspection  we found the young sheep trapped in a fenced off area belonging to an electricity firm.

As we approached both sheep became quite agitated and,  jamming open the gate and making more than a little noise, we encouraged baby sheep to return to its mother's side.
We left feeling very content having reunited a family.
I am aware that our actions do not equal those performed by fellow LEJOG cyclists, Two Tyred, but all the same, we felt good as we climbed to the summit.

Very tired, but satisfied, as the main chunk of the hard work for the day was done, we rolled down towards Dores. Enroute, we stopped at Foyers tea room for a brew and cake before going across the road to view the advertised waterfall.
After a brief ooh and aaah, we climbed back up the goat track to our bikes and cotinued north along route 78 on the east side of Loch Ness.
The gradually descending rolling slopes took us to the water's edge before we began a rolling climb into Inverness.

 Camp site found, tent pitched, electric plugged in and kettle boiled. All was good. As we were settling into our usual routine, a friendly camper then asked us the usual questions. Satisfied with our reply he then said, that Inverness had heard we were on route and have clubbed together as a population to fund a performance by the great Bryan Adams. We have been provided with VIP seating and will enjoy his music from less than 50 metres distance...... from where I type this message.

Yep, Inverness move into 2nd place for their welcome, laying just behind Glen Coe and the RAF Hercules.

Tonight, before BA fires up the vocals chords, we shall meet up with (ex-RAF) Tony and Jules Butler, Tony being a friend of Kathy and her brother Jim, from their collective school-days back in Ringwood.
BA has agreed to delay his usual start time until we are back at our tent......which we believe is quite acceptable,,,,Kathy kindly?? suggested that his gesture is most reasonable, 😁

Tomorrow we get to enjoy the ferry from Cromarty, the name made famous by BBC shipping forecast broadcasts on Radio 4........late at night and during cricket commentaries,...... and as a result I am a little excited about this particular ferry ride.

But that is for tomorrow. Good night, readers, good night! 😂




2 days for the price of one.

Into Fort Augustus - 4 cycling days to go.


We left later than normal due to a slow start and the knowledge that we were only riding 25 miles.

Down the road for 1 mile, take a right just after Gairlochy lock and back onto NCR route 78. The next 12 miles were forest tracks which were no test for our all terrain tyres. I suggest, though, that the muddy and stony track would have been very interesting /tricky on road going tyres.
As we neared the 6 mile point, we saw our first people of the day,  two walkers together with alsation/huskey-cross dogs. We stopped to admire the beautiful (and well behaved) animals and started chatting to the owners. They too are considering the idea of LEJOG and, like us, using more quiet roads.

The effort in following the quiet-road route involves more hills but is far more satisfying with nicer scenery but physically more demanding.
As one of my pals said, 'nothing is for free, everything costs' ......so, if you want more peace while cycling, keep off the flatter and busier roads!

On we went, weaving through pot holes on the forest track, but aware that on the eastern side of the loch was the very busy A82. Take your pick!
After 12 miles we crossed the road bridge only to see a Dutch Barge tied alongside the canal, and as we have an interest in owning one ourselves, we went to have a look. The bonus.....its a cafe/bar, so in we went for a brew and a chat with the young owner.
The Eagle Barge is not only a pub/cafe but also doubles as a hostel at £10 per person, what a treat that would have been.....if only we had known! Next time!

Onwards we went, boosted by the very enjoyable stop/rest/chat,
to pick up the former rail track that was in far better condition than the forest track we had just left behind and as we sped? along...at 12 mph....a Portuguese cyclist introduced himself as he caught up. It wasn't long before he tired of our slow pace and he disappeared into the distance.

We found him half an hour later sat on the canal side resting and taking lunch, with a glass of wine, cheese, boiled eggs all sat on a picnic blanket. Classy, but possibly slightly excessive......even by our standards.😁

Soon the rail-trail ended as we once more met the A82. At the crossing the NCR organisers have shown their collective lack of sense. We were directed to go across the main road follow the canal a further 400 metres and, only then, take a left over the V shaped lock gates while being obliged to lift the heavy bikes 18 inches or so on to, and back off, the gates.  All of which could have been avoided by going left over the road bridge and then turn right!!!!!!

Aaaaaarrrrrgggghhhh!

To ease our pain, an RAF jet swooped over us following the course of the canal and disappeared around the bend 500 metres away. Hmmmm, a fly-by mid-ride.....not sure about that! That's not on the same heights as previous welcomes. Poor show!

Slightly disgruntled by the early fly-by we pressed on along the gentle downwards slope, with the wind behind us and sun shining. Within 5 miles we were at the set of locks at Fort Augustus and we were met with hordes of holiday makers.....and slowed our pace dramatically.

There were many positive comments, about ' heavy loads', ' nice day for it' and of course 'rather you than me'.
We stopped to chat with a lovely and happy couple from Lincoln who were very encouraging in their words, which always helps. They kindly directed us to the local supermarket and went on their way, leaving Kathy to become all goggle-eyed when she heard, then saw, a chap in full highlands regalia and playing the pipes.

As tempted as she was.......she didn't check! 😂.

But the bagpipe welcome was readily accepted as being on a par with the Glen Coe Hercules flypast so we have forgiven the RAF!

As we left the shop, a fellow cyclist flying the French flag from his trailer tucked in behind us and followed us to the lovely Cumberland campsite, 50 metres from the locks.  We invited 'Stephan' to join us and we chatted in Franglais for a couple of hours until the evening drizzle separated us to our tents and chores (cooking for me).

Tomorrow is a rest day, the last one, before heading up to Inverness, alongside Loch Ness, to meet up with a schoolday-pal of Kathy's.



PS

In a rush to get last evening's blog uploaded I omitted to mention an event worthy of note.

On our arrival, Glen Coe folk made a marvellous attempt to welcome us, not with Kendal-like brass bands, nor with New Cumnock-like flags and bunting displayed from every lamppost, but instead, in a nod to my military background, sent a Hercules on a low-level flight directly over the campsite. Our very own flyby......I doubt that the next few campsites/villages will be able to improve on that 😀

Only the Red Arrows could beat that. Time will tell.

To the Caledonian Canal!

Today's ride filled me with a little dread as we were to be following the main road through to Fort William, so when we left the campsite for the main road, I was apprehensive. However, as soon as we turned right, we found a cycle path which, though right next to the busy main road......and coaches/lorries and idiot car drivers, .....we were safe.
With a side wind blowing we rolled along merrily for about 6 or 7 miles when a signpost offered us a ferry ride that would allow us to ride the west side of the water rather than the A82. Perfect.

As we cycled off the Corran ferry.....free for cyclists 😁 and turned right it was immediately obvious that we were on our own, no walkers, cyclists and very little road traffic.
In the next 12 miles we were pushed along by a fine south westerly breeze on the quietest of roads taking us through wooded, and then suddenly, open areas offering us a wide variety of views.......the best one being Ben Nevis in call its glory, backing in sunshine.

This beautiful and quiet lane led us to the 2nd ferry, taking us back across the water in to the centre of Fort William.....for £3 each. Money well spent if one considers the pleasure and safety that we had just enjoyed.
In to the supermarket for our daily shop and then back on the route. So far, we had cycled about 15 miles, none of which was on the busy roads and this was to continue as we followed another cycle path to pick up the start of the Caledonian Canal.

As we turned right at the lock for the canal path, the lock gates siren activated and to Kathy's joy we found a French naval sailing ship ....... of a great age..... alongside three other, more modern but equally glamorous, yachts. What a treat! Kathy's boat porn needs satisfied for the day!

As the French sail ship began to head out of the lock, the skipper piped his crew and they stood to attention as the watching crowd and other crews were waved goodbye. Wonderful.......I nearly applauded, and now wish I had done so.

After chatting with two Canadian cyclists.....also watching the sailing spectacle......heading in the opposite direction we left Fort William and headed for Gairlochy lock and the nearby campsite.

The strong wind was pushing us along nicely and the 6/7 miles was soon completed. As we arrived at the lock, we saw the lock  keeper and stopped to chat. 45 minutes later he offered us a wild camping pitch on the lock side, together with shower/toilet facilities - all free.
I couldn't...... Kathy would, but I like the security of a campsite and of course, the electric for a Kettle.

The campsite is nothing special and the owner will no doubt arrive to collect a fee soon enough, my only hope is that its a low price considering the state of this 'well used' place.

As we put up the tent we had a flyby from a grey.....Naval??? helicopter..... an average attempt by the village to get a mention. As the helicopter was at least 400 metres away, we were not overly impressed......and may not mention the event at all 😁

Oh how fussy one has become over a welcome.......

After we had finished our evening meal, we climbed aboard our cycles once more and went 2 miles up the lane to the junction with the A82. There, on the hilltop overlooking Speen Bridge is a monument to the Royal Marine Commandos. Heroes all.

Kathy's uncle, Allen was once such hero.......as was Kathy's father, Steve.
We spent a few moments looking at, and photographing, the large monument, with sculptures of three Royal Marine Commandos stood facing Ben Nevis away to the south west.

After the obligatory photographs, we went to the small garden of remembrance adjacent to the monument and read some of the plaques. We were both very moved. We could, and should, have carried with us a plaque for both men......and to them both and to those who loved and cared for them, our apologies.

In a rather sombre mood, we zip the tent, climb in to our sleep bags and rest in preparation for tomorrow's ride in to Fort Augustus.

Another day done, another day nearer JOG and another day nearer returning to the sunny shores of Bournemouth.



To Glen Coe ....... in the sunshine!!!!

After an evening where we spent more time fighting off midges than breathing, we surrendered the great outdoors to Scottish wildlife and retired very early. As soon as the tent was sealed an almighty storm blew up and a vast amount of rain tested our tent for at least 30 minutes.

The following 2 hours was spent listening to late arrivals describing their version of the storm.....and how wet they were. Luck was on our side.......

We awoke to a chilly but bright morning with a gentle breeze blowing from the west but it could have been worse, it could have been from the north!
As the rest of the campers woke, folk were hanging wet clothes (from yesterday's storm) and a general atmosphere of amusement and c'est la vie with a fair bit of story sharing about last evenings weather and how each was affected. Sadly we had to leave the convivial atmosphere and head out on the busy narrow road leading to Glen Coe, which, Google said, is 30 miles away.

We were immediately met with a gentle incline that stretched out into the distance and with no sign of the incline levelling off and for the first time in over 1200 miles Kathy asked me to 'slow down'  and so confused/worried was I ....... that I stopped!

Slow down? Why?

Because I am getting out of breath!......said the slipstreaming queen.

Phew......I thought it was something serious!

Lets do what we've been doing for the last 1300 miles, I'll go up at my pace, you do the same, first one at the top waits for the other before we move on.

Problem solved and we headed yet higher. Before long we saw our first road sign for Glen Coe ..... 34 miles! Odd, today's route is supposed to be only 35!
We climbed yet further on a rolling climb encountering the Welcome To The Highlands sign....and beautiful sunshine reminding me of the time I cycled this road with my eldest, Ben.
3 hours into the ride we approached a car and trailer with two slightly older folk stood to the side. 'Can we help'?

The gent had tried driving into the layby where a puddle was hiding a huge hole in which his front wheel was now jammed! They had 'called recovery but that vehicle was over in Fort William on a job and would be a while yet'.

We laid down our bikes, detached the trailer, and asked the driver to try reverse ...... gently..... while we tugged on the door posts. At the second attempt, the car was back on all four wheels and we went on our way feeling good about life.
The upward rolling road soon flattened out and then began the very long rolling descent through the most stunning scenery. The words that I would use to describe such beauty would be fail to do justice.
We stopped way more than was sensible to stand and look at the panorama that draws so many folk to the area. It's truly incredible and I suggest that the slower one moves through this part of Scotland, the more one would enjoy one self.
But time waits for no man.....or woman..... and on we pushed. Finally we descended at an average speed of 20 mph for 5 miles, on roads with cliff-like  climbs on one side and drops on the other all dwarfed by the immense glens in every direction.
I hope I have done the scenery justice.

In to Glen Coe to the shop then to the campsite located at the head of the loch and the hilltops immediately behind, all that with the sun shining. Heavenly.

Another 42 miles completed and with little effect on the toughened legs. We press on tomorrow to start the run along the Caledonian Canal.
We miss home, very much, but we will miss the pleasures we are enjoying on a daily basis.

Passing Loch Lomond

10 days till we get on the train for home......but that cannot be the driver! The goal is part of the journey, and the journey IS to be enjoyed, Scottish weather included.

 We put on lightweight jackets to fend off the lightest of drizzle and bade farewell to our hosts.
After stopping for food.....   there are no more shops on the way.... we headed north. We stopped, as drizzle turned to rain to change up to full wet weather gear as we cleared town and pedalled along the Loch Lomond West path.

Within 5 miles the rain stopped, the temperature rose and soon after my 'overheated headache' told me to rid myself of the lightweight jacket and embrace the local weather ...... or stop, which is not the preferred option.
Oh to once more be the owner of an inbuilt temperature control. Heyho, eh.

We stopped at a lovely cafe in Tarbet where we enjoyed a coffee, cake and chat with the owner, who was looking for a recommendation for a holidaying area down south.
Without pausing I suggested Whitsands Bay Fort.....once there walk left for Rame Head, and if feeling very energetic, walk the coastal path on to Cawsand, Kingsand and and even Cremyll/Mount Edgecombe. A bus can be used to take you back if you need it. The beauty of The Forgotten Corner is, that no matter the weather, one is assured of peace, beauty and spectacular views.

As we left Tarbet we also left the safety of the Loch Lomond cycle path and joined the main road. My mind turned to Kathy's paternal Aunty Monica and her daughters, Rosie and Ruth who, today, with their respective families, have attended the funeral service for Uncle Allen Sweeney, husband, father, grandfather and a friend to many.

I have previously spoken of him in this blog when we heard the news of his passing, some 10 days ago. I wrote then of his positive attitude, determination, joy for a tale, willingness to listen and of course, debate.
Allen was a fine man, who, rightly, carried the badge of a Royal Marine Commando with pride. I knew him for only a short while, but I was impressed and touched by his enthusiasm for life, the generosity of his vast knowledge, his love of his family and his friends who are spread worldwide

I hope Monica, Ruth and Rosie, their wider families and Allen's friends find solace in the good memories they carry forward.



The rest of the ride became quite insignificant to me and we arrived at our campsite of choice for the day, where I sit in glorious sunshine, sharing a crisp with a very friendly robin and finch.

We are at Beinglas campsite, in a wonderful location, beside a fantastic mountainside waterfall and we have a small cafe, bar and restaurant to satisfy all of our needs too. Wonderful.



To Loch Lomond

On returning to our room after last evening's meal I started to become uncomfortably warm. I need a good night's sleep or the next day is always very difficult for me, so I took two paracetamol, a glass of water, and laid on top of the sheet.

I switched on the shower room extractor and opened the two old fashioned sash windows by raising the lower window which I held open with drink bottles. I woke an hour later, very hot, to find that the extractor was off and the window shut !!!!

All of the above rectified, I awaited my temperature to normalise and the village sleep fairy to wave the magic wand once more!

2 hours of waiting and it would seem that the sleep fairy had left the village of Uplawmoor for other parts. I sipped water, consumed sufficient paracetamol to create icebergs, yet sleep was not forthcoming. I even lay on the floor by the now-open window but, all to no avail.
So......I wrote this small piece and hoped that a standby sleep fairy,  in need if some meaningful employment, would pop in to sprinkle sleepy dust upon this eager soul.

Sleep came to me around 1 am, and I awoke around 7 feeling pretty ragged.
I took another two paracetamol before breakfast as the forecast was 'warm and slightly cloudy'.

We made good speed, heading for Renfrew and it's ferry. After taking a wrong turn we headed back toward Paisley, stopping to check with folk as we went.
To say that some folk have no idea about their towns/villages is an understatement. One charming, and no doubt well intentioned, elderly lady said to us 'Aye, the ferry, follow this left bend to the crossroads, straight over and it's right in front of you....about 3 miles'.
Grateful, we left her wishing good health on her and her two aging dogs...... In two miles we came to a T junction!
A chap we asked responded with 'Och.....I've not long lived here, pal.......now.....no, in 10 years I've never heard of the ferry, sorry'.

Sigh. Kindle map it is then......again.

We eventually cycled into Renfrew and found a Gregg's and I sought solice in 2 cheese and onion pasties. I watched from afar a young chap, 21????, trying to drum up business of some kind, and I was amazed at the rudeness of the British public, some blanking him, others merely raising a 'stop hand' at him and one or two clearly making eye contact but not breaking stride to at least hear what he had to say.
I did wonder if he was selling leprosy!

I admired his willingness to persevere and as he walked away from his position on the pavement, to a very hard earned lunch break, I  offered him a word of sympathy. His reply didn't surprise me -'I've had worse, believe me'.
This clean, tidy and well spoken lad, from London origins, recently completed a degree in Glasgow and was attempting to sell folk the chance to save cash on their utility bills!! The folk of Renfrew don't deserve to be given the chance.
To cut a long story as short as I can, we signed up to keep our bills at a fixed price for the next 2 years and with us free to go elsewhere should we wish.

We spent the rest of his lunch break chatting and we found the lad to be everything a parent would want in a son....polite, hardworking, respectful, modest, ambitious and seemingly without malice or predujice.
We wished him well, invited him to visit us in Bournemouth and left for the ferry, knowing that there are some truly fine kids growing up to take this country forward.

We arrived at the ferry.......to find it out of service and we were forced to cycle for 6 miles away from our destination to find a bridge over the Clyde.
Easing off the speed we headed away to Goven and not one but 3 bloody bridges within 500 metres of each other ........ PUT ONE IN RENFREW!!!!! ..... and headed west in the direction of Loch Lomond, now 20 miles away.
Today was going to be a 45 miler, not 25. Heyho.

As we cycled along, as if out for a Sunday stroll with the toddlers, we stopped to photograph items of interest to us. One such item is a 10 feet tall bicycle.
As we circled the 'bike', a fellow cyclist stopped to take a drink and we fell into conversation.
Neil, was relatively new to cycling and was using a recently acquired bike and he was also heading in the direction of Loch Lomond. Let's go!

We chatted, laughed and enjoyed this local chap's knowledge and general manner.

How many times have I written about meeting good folk along the way?

We were gifted a running commentary of interesting facts and 'warned' of an ' upcoming hazard' ...... a cafe next to a cycle shop.
Its kind of in the rules, we HAD to stop.

Neil and I both had wallets open and we battled for the right to pay.....Jokingly, I offered 'I'll fight you' I offered to this gentle looking chap weighing about 11 stone and standing 5' 6'' to my 17 stone and 6 feet.....knowing full well that I would run the speed of Usain Bolt if needed.

'You'll lose' Neil offered and the young lass at the counter gave me a knowing smile, and laughed while taking my cash.

'You wouldn't catch me' I retorted and we sat laughing to enjoy our break.

Neil, it transpires is a karate expert who doubles as a Catholic Priest when not fighting off burly southern cyclists in a Glasgow canal side cafe! Neither of us look like fighters, but in truth, I'd have backed Neil..... if bets were to be made.

Back on the bikes, be careful Tony.......TONY!!!!!!. as I slammed on the brakes after cycling off the cycle path into the road. Saved by a holy man!
We rode on, chatting amicably with Neil directing us and giving me extra warning at junctions, as our speedometers ticked through the 45 mile mark.
Without any further incidents we arrived at the southern tip of Loch Lomond and as Neil turned to head home ...... a further 25 miles!!!! ..... we discovered we had cycled 2 miles too far and rejoined Neil to head back to Alexandria and our accommodation.

We eventually waved goodbye, exchanged contact details and went our separate ways, us knowing we have had good fortune again today.

The accommodation is wonderful and if you are in the area, you would do well to consider Albannach B and B on Main St. The accommodation is very homely and the owners most welcoming.

Life's good. Thank you to all who have helped to make it so.





To Strathclyde then Falkirk ......or NOT!

Last evening, after uploading the blog, Kathy checked her diary and stated, 'the days and dates are wrong ......  and tomorrow we should be 55 miles away in Falkirk!' That's not a sensible distance with my dodgy health.

I phoned the B&B owner in Falkirk to seek confirmation and, of course, Kathy was correct. With more than a little apologising on my part, the B&B owner forgave me and route adjustments were started.

Needless to say, Kathy is the ever-understanding / flexible / calm / forgiving person that we all love.  How I have made such a mistake, I cannot know, nor does it matter now. Having received the forgiveness of two kind ladies the best I can do is re-do the route to ensure we reach the Glasgow B&B on schedule.

As we approach the end, time has become increasingly important as we have pre-paid train tickets, including reservations for the bikes, so my error has meant we miss out on the highlights of Falkirk.....for us that would be the kelpies and canal lift.

As is typical of Kathy, her comment after I apologised, again, was, 'its OK, it gives us a reason to come back another time'. Oh, to be so quick to 'move on' from a set back.

We woke to drizzle which continued after we left. As I arrived at the first T junction (after 200 metres) Kathy, realising that its Sunday, suggested we alter the route and head left for Kirkpatrick, on the main road.

To say that the suggestion was inspired would be an understatement, as the road was downhill for the next 12 miles..... a gratefully received payback for yesterday's climb.
3 or 4 miles into the descent, the drizzle became rain and we donned our wet weather gear then cooked, slowly, in our waterproofs. Wet with rain or wet with perspiration..... take your pick 😕.


Checking the map, we headed for Stewarton. In the town we stopped at a homely looking cafe for warm food and drinks. As we were about to enter, we were stopped by a lovely local gent also ex-RAF, who gave us a lecture on the recent history of his town and then said he was planning an expedition of his own, to cycle the river Danube from source to Vienna. Yep, its on our list.

After eating and drinking we changed plan and decided that as today was Falkirk day, (B&B) we looked for a hotel. The nearest was, luckily, directly on route for Glasgow and we pushed onwards a further 7 miles.
We arrived at Uplawmoor Hotel, drenched and certainly ready for a warm shower, a kip for me and then pub cooked food before a sleep in a proper bed for a change.

I had a good kip and then put on the TV .... true luxury ..... to see the Tour de France and the amazing action, come on Froome!

Tomorrow, the weather is expected to be rain free and we will enter Glasgow using the Renfrew ferry and hopefully, grab some time to enjoy the sites as we head to the southern tip of Loch Lomond.



To Catrine, Ayrshire.

We left Penport in the chill of early morning, myself, trying??? the patience of the rain gods, by wearing glasses.
We nearly stopped to put on the lightweight jackets but pressed on for Drumlanrig Castle.
The castle is a truly magnificent building in beautiful grounds overlooking the river Nith. At 9.00 on a Saturday, it appeared to us that noone was around, neither to work, nor visit. Both the coffee shop and the bike hire business were yet to open. I wanted to pop in to the bike hire shop to say 'thanks' to the chap who gave me the campsite details for last evening and tonight.

Sadly, with the lack of folk, we had a nose around on our own and, to the delight of Kathy and myself, we found an open garage that was storing a Citroen Kigresses, 1924 complete with tracked rear wheels, making the divertion most pleasing.

We descended away from the house/castle along a paved driveway, coloured pinky-red similar to that used on The Mall running up to Buckingham Palace to then pick up the A76 which was empty and we headed north. We cycled upwards, ever upwards, on a very slight rolling gradient which turned into a 20 mile climb which,to add insult, was also into a northerly blowing breeze.
With regular eat and drink stops we descended in to New Cumnock to be welcomed, as at Kendal, with bunting and flags. We felt their love and warmth......or was that the downward slope, the slight change in wind direction and the sun appearing?

One of the drink stops was by, what we thought, an empty meadow. Very soon, we were visited by two very large rams, both sporting the finest set of curly horns and so commenced a staring competition and photo opportunity. We won the staring competition, you will no doubt be delighted to read!

A stop at the New Cumnock station cafe and a conversation with a local brought us crashing down from our warm-welcome-high and we were told that the flags were, not for us, but were to celebrate the town football achieving The Treble. Apparently the 2,500 population were rather pleased but 'Dont expect a repeat any time soon' we were told. I can clearly hear the words spoken by Donald Sutherland (in the land of his forefathers) Positive waves, Moriarty, positive waves!

Onwards we ploughed, on another 4 mile very slight climb and still into the breeze, to [Old??] Cumnock for the days shopping. After the 'cheapest shop yet' we climbed out of Cumnock heading for the campsite of choice for today.

After a welcome twist in the road to allow us a small share of the breeze, and a pot-holed descent we entered the former mill town of Catrine. After receiving confirmation of our directions we headed up the last hill to Catrine Castle campsite......'that doesn't accept tenters .......  but make sure you enjoy the lovely icecream while you are there'. Positive waves, Moriarty!!!!!

It shouldn't accept tenters, but did, and as for the ice-cream...... we did, and was very very nice indeed. To add to our pleasure of completing a very tiring 38 miles, most of it in to the wind, the sun came out, the clouds disappeared, for now, the swifts.....or swallows are enjoying feeding their hungry-young on flies and midges (great news!) while we sit, resting against a sandstone wall, icecream to hand wearing much needed sun hats.

After a large meal tonight, to replace the 2,800 calories used up on today's ride, we shall plan tomorrow's ride to Strathclyde which hopefully, will include a more friendly breeze......and the warmth of the sun.

A demain, mes amis 😀

To Penport

We woke in the beautiful surroundings of Hoddom Castle......go there, if only once ...... and the warmth just about made the very light drizzle, bearable.

After normal operations were completed, we loaded each bike, mine with 5 bags and tent, Kathy with 4 bags and roll mats. As we slung our legs over the cross bar of our respective bikes, Kathy asked me 'do you have the shower block keys?'

You know the answer, just because I write about it! In turn we each un-bungeed - is there such a word? - our bags, to sift through all items, boxes, jackets, shirts....anything where a key could be hidden.
Key one found.....there is a ladies key, as well as a gents key.....both fit each other, but the lock to the gents shower block is kna-broken .....so, within an hour of arriving, yesterday, my key had been given to herself, queen of slipstreaming, first to Scotland, Queen of Kirkstone Pass ...... for safe keeping.
'Where's the other one', I am then asked? As if I should know!

I, luckily for us, held on to my sense of humour and admitted that 'I didn't know and we should just keep looking' to ensure we recovered the £10 deposit for the two keys.
'Are you sure you don't have it' I am then asked. I huff as does herself as another bag is unloaded and emptied. All of my bags are off and checked, when, .......... 'Found it......I don't know how it ended up in my fleece jacket' I heard, ......and I looked with mock surprise, but relieved, that we would be able to regain our £10 and the reloading continued without further difficulty.

We set off on to the gentle rolling hills and weaved our way through the lovely and quiet lanes of south Scotland and before long we were in Dumfries.
Though only half way, we stopped to complete the daily shop as the next 20 miles were using  the remote lanes of Dumfries and Galloway......where we saw only 2 people outside of a car; no walkers, cyclists, horse riders..... just two dog walkers!

We rolled into Penpont and spied 'the campsite gardener', Derek, who briefed us on the rules, gave us 25% discount because, like him, we have a military background and because he could. 😀

After a lovely chat he showed us where to pitch and left us to unpack, for the second time that day. The kettle was on before the tent was put up and as soon as we were showered and brewed we both had a doze before a walk into the village to discover a shop!
We had carried food for 20 miles and there's a shop in the village! Bloody Google!

The lady behind the counter was cheerful and chatty and asked what brought us to the village. 'We are cycling LEJOG' we said, her response being a gentle sigh, flushing of the cheeks and an 'I don't feel well from just thinking about it. But, good luck to you both'!

Back at the site, Kathy found the site warden and paid the one night fee. He currently is employed at Bournemouth airport..... and travels 9 hours each Sunday and 9 hours back each Thursday. Incredible!
He offered to give us a lift back to Bournemouth, on Sunday and we could all pretend we had completed the ride. Tempting! Very, very tempting. But the offer was politely declined and we have 14 days to go, not 2!

The chat ended up with us being invited for 'a session' in the next-village pub leaving at 7 and returning around 11/12. This kind invite was also politely declined as we could both do with a good night's sleep unfuelled through booze.

Tomorrow we head for Strathclyde and most likely a busy and noisy campsite. Till then, dear reader, bon nuit, mes amis.







To Scotland!!!



Rest day Carlisle.

Yesterday evening, as we were cooking our evening meal, our phone rang. It was Neil..... who, with his fine lady, Jo, we met in Gloucester..... 'Why don't you guys come to ours for an evening meal tomorrow? We'll meet you in town, give you a lift to ours, feed you and later, give you a lift (11 miles) back to Bowness'?

As I said, we have met some really lovely people as we have moved north. To name those I am able to recall would risk ommitting someone, but to those who have stopped to chat, helped and/or encouraged, thank you.
All of those folk have touched us and we are grateful for their effort, time, generosity and friendliness.
It's been a while since we received such kindness, the last time probably being our recent visit to Mallorca and the kindness showered upon us by Kathy's sister, Carolina and her boyfriend, Oscar. Fine people.

There are so many good and nice people and the pleasure we have gained from their Groatsy has helped us, and eased our way, enormously.

It would be fair to say we have also encountered the exact opposite right from the start where we were actively ignored, (because we were a bit sweaty/muddy/happy/different/camping as opposed to motorhome-ing) but the nice folk have outnumbered the others tenfold, thankfully!

After our evening meal we visited the village pub (King's Arms) and became involved in a conversation with the land lady and 4 other locals. We had a great chat for 30 minutes and many laughs  with them and about stories we,  and they, wanted to share. A fine end to a soggy day.
I bought a travelog Have Thumb, Will Travel, written by a local chap (Peter Anderson), deliberately??? filled with grammatical errors, written with great humour and designed, I believe, to show that its OK to be different, to NOT follow the rules of the wider populous and the first three pages have had me chuckling ......... after I had switched off my autistic mind and ignored the 100 word sentences containing 30 commas with spelling and grammatical errors. 😀.

The landlady told us that Peter is a teacher of kids with learning difficulties and I believe that the method of writing is a salute to those folk to let them know that its OK to get stuff wrong, but ....... keep trying!

Last evening was spent with Neil, Jo and, later, their youngest son. We had a great time, arriving back at the glampsite at nearly midnight after several hours of laughing, story-swapping, food and drink...... a generous and kind family.

We woke late, a little weary after the evening before, but aware that we could take our time while Neil and Jo were already in their respective places of work and I was grateful that we could ease our way into the day, unlike many others.

Today we arrived in Scotland! Only 450 miles to do and to be done in 14 days. No pressure! ☺
The ride out of Bowness and around the top of the estuary to Gretna was without problems on quiet roads and cycle paths following Route 7 ...... and the sun came out when the breeze switched to southerly. The rain gods have given up on us????? and, presumably, moved away to toy with other's minds and bodies.

As we descended from the last bridge in England towards the large SCOTLAND sign, Kathy accelerated to pass me and then came to an abrupt halt, with 'we need a picture'. David Baily would have been proud of us, every possible pose......feet crossed, left leg bent, frontal and side views..... even a failed attempt at a selfie.....and then a sign on the opposite side of the road, Land's End...478 miles John O Groats 360!!!!! Not if you followed our route, 😀.
We calculate that we have cycled 800 miles to that point and have a further 450 to go. That's a route of our choosing to avoid big roads, towns and grumpy folk.....so far so good 😁

With cameras returned to their pouches, we pressed on, deliberately working harder than necessary to ensure our minds and legs don't become soft with the flat course for the day. We still managed 35 miles and 2500 calories though I think I may have eaten more in the 2 and half hours we spent pedalling. Who cares? Who's counting......not us, but the doc may be pleased especially with today's peak heart rate of 132! 😀

After the necessary shop in Annan, we swooped down the Neil/Jo-promised descent to find today's campsite. WHAT a location. Hoddom Castle, a fine location and facilities, but no Wifi, heyho

Tent erected, both of us showered and fresh drinks consumed  we sat on the lawn, yes lawn!  We found ourselves overlooking a paddock and with a gentle hum of someone's motor mower buzzing away in the distance. Wonderful!

............



To Bowness on Windermere via Keswick

We left Sykeside at 10 and followed the downward rolling slope into Ullswater where we bought the days rations in a lovely little roadside general store.  The busy shop was the only store for miles and while we were there, several walkers and 2 other cyclists popped in. A cunning piece of positioning by the original owner.
We followed the banks of Ullswater until we reached the turn for Dockray and yet another 2 mile climb......but, as it transpired, the only meaningful hill of the day.

Soon we were freewheeling down towards the busy road that leads into Keswick but fortunately our directions sent us left just before. We followed the slopes of this track/road for 5 miles before finding the cycleway that took us towards our campsite for the night.
As we dropped into a tiny village no more than a mile from our destination, I spied a sign for a cafe and discovered a smart new tearoom in a very quiet setting. As we sat with our drinks and caramel and chocolate covered flapjack a similar aged couple sitting at the next table asked if we 'were going far?'.
 They too were keen tourers and we had a great chat for half an hour before we found that our chosen campsite was also theirs and they would escort us to the door. Fabulous 😀.

After sorting out our gear, a shower and a brew we climbed onboard our cycles for a 4 mile round trip to see the Castlerigg Round Stones.
This National Trust run location is perched on a small hilltop and completely surrounded by huge peaks. If this place is really an ancient monument / settlement, I can fully understand the choice of this beautiful location........ an open sky surrounded by the most picturesque landscape.

As we prepared to leave the site, we met another couple and chatted. We were soon laughing, joking and sharing life's experiences and enjoyed yet another very pleasant encounter with two lovely caring folk. My only regret is forgetting to get their contact details. Silly me.

They have left us with a gift though ....... the idea of canoeing down the river Wye. Why not 😂!

An early night beckons before we head off to Carlisle.

We woke late and the sound of rain welcomed in the day. The peaks of the surrounding hills were hidden by the low clouds and the lack of a breeze told us to get out the rain gear and be ready for a soaking.

The rolling hills took us through breathtaking valleys and dales, each corner inviting more than a cursory glance. Fortunately, only a very few cars used the Cornwall-like lanes and we had time to see the surroundings, avoid the multitude of potholes and gravel traps, as well as the many sheep that seemingly had escaped their fields.
The gentle rolling hills became longer and steeper and the hill out of Caldbeck was a cheeky 12% that went on for about a mile.......only a short hill 😀 and only 12% 😀.....so no stopping even though the heart rate raised up to 151 before I reached the top and the signpost for Wigton.
As we crossed the main road, the rain picked up and after 5 miles down the most gentle of slopes, I was getting cold and my fears of a medical relapse spurred me forward to reaching speeds of 28 mph as I pressed on hoping for a bakery. Thankfully, Gregg's have a shop on the crossroads and we tucked into a pie and coffee but only after a change of shirt.
Onwards into town to find Lidl and a further chat where an elderly chap liked my sponsored beard commenting that it made me look like George Clooney. When I related that information to Kathy, she laughed, but kindly, and quietly mumbled 'I wish'. None taken! ☺
As we left town we noticed the same chap stumbling into Specsavers.....which could explain his likening of Mr Clooney to the less well known, but equally handsome, Mr Lane 😂.
As Leonard Cohen once penned, possibly of me, and I only slightly misquote ☺:

I was born like this, I had no choice
Born so handsome with a beautiful voice
By 27 angels from the great beyond
The left me right here in the Tower of Song

Sorry Leonard.....may you rest in peace, you poetic genius. For you readers, jump on u tube and call up Tom Jones singing The Tower Of Song.

Back to cycling. The final 7 miles were relatively flat and I pressed harder than usual and once again, was impressed to find Kathy following my back wheel as we powered (for us) towards our destination. We arrived in Bowness on Solway and the glamp site.....as opposed to campsite ...... as we had previously booked a 2 night stop in a wooden wigwam, together with proper bed, cooker, kettle, shower and even a place to leave our wet gear to drip dry.
If you want a fabulous retreat in the Carlisle area, you would do well to consider Wall end, Bowness on Solway. To top it all, there is a friendly pub, that serves good food, no more than 100 metres away. For us, bliss.

Once showered, fed and warming we put on the TV to see a little Wimbledon tennis (bathed in sun) while we looked out over the paddock where we saw cattle fending oiff midges while the rain soaked them!

................

Rest day and nearly to Ullswater

We woke very late, 9.30, and noticed that the air was cooler. The breeze had picked up overnight and changed to westerly. By lunch the clouds were breaking up and the air was warming.

We noticed that many fellow campers were heading for the bay/beach so we followed. We were delighted to see that there were 25 or so land yachts who had congregated from around the country to hold an unofficial race/gathering.  We were treated to a spectacular show of speed, daring and colour all of which made our rest day most enjoyable.

On our return, two fellow cycling campers pitched up next to us and we shared our respective who, why, what..... They had just arrived after a 40 mile ride, were pitching tent and then going off for a further ride. Oh to have such fitness!
When they returned another set of campers had pitched within 2 feet of their tent........bizarre as the available ground is about the size of two football pitches!

We helped them move their tent and we consoled ourselves with a really decent grump about the youngsters of today and their lack of awareness of others, respect and courtesy. With us all feeling much better we left them to complete their move and we retired to our pitch and comforts.

An early night is the plan followed by an early rise, decent breakfast and a departure time of around 7 to miss much of the early Sunday morning traffic...... That's the plan!

We woke at 6 with the alarm, ate, packed and prepped the bikes for the day's entertainment. As we were about to leave the Karl poked out his head and waved goodbye. I trotted over to say goodbye toi him and his lady, Sarah,  to shake his hand  he wished both Kathy and me a good trip and passed me a fiver for Kathy's hospital fund. I gave him our email and invited them to visit us in Bournemouth where, hopefully, we can repeat our grumping session but that time, while having a sip of some wobbly juice 😀.

Off we went, ignoring the directions but instead we used the A6.....as it was Sunday..... and headed for Kendal. Other than 1 mile on a connecting dual carriageway we enjoyed a relatively quiet road with slight slopes to warm up the legs.

We arrived in Kendal to find that a kind soul had put out bunting to welcome our arrival. As we rolled up the high street we were serenaded with brass band music and the town cryer along with the Mayor.
We stopped to thank everyone for our welcome and added that it was most kind but not at all necessary. A humourless chap then explained that it wasn't for our benefit but an annual town celebration of clubs and societies.....we left to find a cafe for a, very expensive, bite to eat and then to Tesco's for the daily shop.

As we loaded our purchases a very friendly couple, with a daughter and grand daughter in the parade chatted with us for a while before the coolness of the morning forced us to leave.

Following our directions, we headed up the hill (having been warned that the climb is incredibly hard by the Tesco's staff). We soon cleared the gentle hill and, following directions for Bowness on Windermere, began to look for campsites.
Without success we arrived in BoW and headed for the lakeside and a small marina.

A sailing-looking chap nodded a welcome and once we had parked our bikes, I engaged him in conversation about his sport. He quickly made his excuses only to be replaced, immediately by a lovely lady who was a fellow cyclist, sailor and all round adventurer.
As she left to board her boat for today's sailing race, a lovely couple arrived who wanted to know who,why,what....etc.

Once we had completed our lunch, we set off in the direction of Ullswater, 10 miles the other side of a 5 mile climb, Kirkstone Pass.

Having never previously stopped on a hill prior to this trip, I happily fell into the role of a 'stopper and rester'!
We stopped at the 1 mile point, then 1k then 800 thereafter the steep climb and rising heart rate demanded a rest every 500 metres.
I stopped to take a photo that Kathy wanted taken, but she didn't want to stop and ploughed on.

With Kathy now ahead by a few car's lengths a 56 seater coach slowly rounded the corner as it dropped down the hill. An idiot Porche driver squeezed past me, forcing me close to the road edge before stopping immediately and shouted to the coach driver that he had to pull over further.......and risk tumbling down the side of the steep valley. As I said, idiot. A fellow cyclist pulled up alongside me and called out to Idiot......'buy a Mini', adding more quietly 'moron'

The fellow cyclist unburdened by panniers, toolbag and tent soon left me behind, and apparently shouted to Kathy 'you're a better man than me' as he caught her......probably not realising, even when he passed......such was Kathy's asthmatic-sounding breathing......that HE was a SHE.😂

We climbed for ages and on the penultimate stop a car driver going the other way waved a thumbs up at the mad southerners with beetroot coloured faces both doing fine impersonations of Darth Vada.

We stopped at the ancient inn that sits atop the pass and enjoyed a well-earned pint of lime and sober.
After another chat with an interested family, we headed for the descent. We had travelled about 2 miles when I felt my brakes weaken and with Kathy shouting ' I can smell your brakes'. I rocked forward on to the cross bar and used my shoes as brakes fortunately bring the bike to a halt just before yet another 15% dip.

Remembering a tip from the chaps in Bournemouth Cycleworks......our preferred, friendly and helpful cycling shop..... I was aware that I needed to cool the hydraulic oil that drives the braking system before the oil loses its viscosity/thickness/working ability.
I poured water from our drinks bottles to see steam erupt from the callipers and I breathed a sigh of relief realising how close I came to having a major incident, again. I guess my 110 kg and the added weight of 40 kg was just too much.
We had to repeat this process another three times before the road levelled off and the snapbacks became manageable bends.

As I released the weight for gravity to take over I sped past a small sign showing camping and I crazily waved my left arm hoping Kathy could stop......she did.....and I braked as gently as I could to allow a safe stop and u turn.

Sykeside ........ NOT skyside as Kathy told me..... campsite is in a truly beautiful location. It sits on a small plot squeezed between very steep slopes reaching, I guess, 800 metres high. To add to its beauty it has a pub attached to the campsite.....everything most travellers require. A place to eat, drink and sleep.

We were given a warm greeting, despite my scruffy 6 day growth......thank you, Suzie T ☺ ....... and have eaten and drunk to replace the 3,500 calories that we merrily consumed on today's 40 mile ride.
Tomorrow we have, hopefully, a slightly easier ride taking us to just outside Keswick.

To Lancaster and beyond

Today we left feeling a little chilly.....well we are now in the north and we are soft southerners who are used to our daily ration of sunshine...... The wind continued to blow gently from the northeast and we sensed, rather than felt, the moisture in the air.
As a user of spectacles I decided to keep the rain gods happy by putting away my glasses and prepare for rain by using contact lenses. My reasoning being that if I prepped for rain, it wouldn't....... whereas conversely if I didn't prepare for rain, it would. I convinced Kathy to don her wet weather jacket to assist in the tricking of those gods and while Kathy slowly cooked and I struggled to read the directions, but, the plan worked.....we stayed dry all day.

Within an hour of leaving I needed to eat and stopped in the lovely village of Copp for a meat pie for myself and a sausage roll for Kathy. Whilst enjoying our snack a charming gentleman engaged us in conversation ..... more who, why, what etc ..... for him to then add that one of his friends, aged 92, was a record holder of LEJOG back in her youth. He had once been a fixed-wheel time trialer and the conversation fell in to how there are so many varieties of bikes now, and how light they are ........ until one loads half of ones house on to the frame 😀.

We waved goodbye and continued in to the breeze and on to the slight inclines and dips making up the edge of the Pennines.......which were shrouded in rain clouds. Soon we went over a tiny toll bridge (owned by a Welshman from Swansea)  stopping to chat to the very contented chap exchanging cash for a ticket and access to the far bank of the small river.

Continuing north we climbed very gently for 45 minutes to enter Lancaster. We knew we were close to the city as the roadside litter increased enormously, but interestingly, the laybys and field gateways remained clear of dumped household goods. If only the same could be said of Dorset where dumping seems to be a highly active pastime!

Into Lancaster and our first taste of 'city driving', impatient drivers, hooting of horns and jumping of red lights... one idiot nearly hitting a rushing ambulance with blue lights and sirens sounding.

We were soon heading into Bolton Le Sands, the village where my eldest brother enjoyed his first years of marriage. By accident we found ourselves on the very road (Grange View) where he once lived. I was living near York at the time and I would load my family in to our small car and drive over the Pennines to see Chris. The house backs on to the Lancaster canal and I can recall many walks along the canal path stopping to feed the wildlife......good days.

Onwards to the campsite, on the banks of Morecambe Bay, we found Red Bank Farm. It is lovely here and we have chosen to stay 2 nights to rest up before we take on the hills of the Lake District. Wish us well! ☺

Kathy has just confirmed that we are half way and have 21 days until we HAVE to be at Wick Station to head home.....as the tickets are already purchased. The kit is holding up well, as are the legs and enthusiasm so we are very hopeful that the 2nd half will be as enjoyable as the first.




To Preston


After a poor night's sleep for both of us, we woke to the 6 am alarm.....with great reluctance.

Once packed and loaded, we set off just after 7 noting the coolness of the air, and, lack of the promised rain. I was still not as well as I liked but chose to press on, less vigorously than normal, in the hope that a decent spin of my legs would freshen up my body. (It took nearly all day!)

Despite leaving early, we found the traffic in the city was surprisingly busy and we took to some side roads to seek shelter from the fast-driving commuters.
Stopping to check the route with a newly-downloaded map, we made our way to the former railway track which would take us to Aintree and the canal path beyond. We found the expected entrance to the trailway to discover that the gateway was just wide enough to allow the passing of a slim person.......certainly not our bikes with panniers, tents and roll mats attached.
As in Devon and the 'beloved' kissing gates, we stripped the bikes, manhandled them through the access gateway and began reloading the bikes. As we went through the loading process, two cyclists stopped to ask if we were OK and 'could they help'?. One, it transpired, is ex-army, so we enjoyed a little military banter and swapped a couple of cycling stories before he pressed on to his place of work with a shout of best wishes and good luck.

Soon we were cycling through Aintree racecourse, so both Kathy and I can honestly say we have ridden on that course.....if only along Melling Lane ☺.
We found the canal path and enjoyed the large amount of wildlife, especially several herons before, some 2 hours in, stopping at a small roadside cafe for a much needed breakfast.

Back into the countryside we went, following the directions that took us via Southport...... which I still don't understand.  That diversion, and the head wind, made us too late to meet up with my former RAF colleague, Bryan - an opportunity missed!
Onwards we pushed heading for Preston and its marina which is worth a visit, especially the lighthouse and various other maritime objects located close by.

As my calorie count was now over 3,000 we dived into MacDonalds for a 'fat' top up of 2 Big Mac and 1 fries, before completing the daily shop for rice and salmon......my current favourite choice for an evening meal. In Morrison's we picked 0.5kg of Salmon for i£1.05p.....unbelievably cheap and sell bybdate is 3 days hence. We win again ☺!

The fish came with bones!!!!! Hence the price. Still yummy though 😀

Within an hour we arrived NE of town at tonights stopping place Brylea Caravan Park...... who have recently ceased accepting tenters 😀 but made an exception for us as we looked a little weary.
Well......we had just cycled 51 miles into the wind! Dont tell anyone, but it was completely flat......so its not as heroic as it sounds. The day's calorie count was 4,300 so a hearty meal and  early to sleep is in order before we head to Morecambe, tomorrow.


With the realisation that the weekend is soon to be upon us, we contacted the next two campsites on the route ..... and a good job we did too! The planned stop at Bowness on Windermere is a non starter as they are full already. We contacted a campsite a further 10 miles on, Gillside,  Ullswater, and theory would be delighted to receive us......and......they NEVER turn away walkers or cyclists!

I was so relieved to hear the lady say those words, I instantly declared my lifelong love for her......which brought a lovely chuckle from her. ☺.
Winner!
The only downside is the 7 mile climb out of Windermere to get to Ullswater, all after the previous 35 miles. Heyho, can't have it all, eh.

PS. My day 4 unshaven state is not a look that I hold dear! Suzie Taylor and her £20!!!!!
Rest day in Liverpool

We had a brilliant couple of hours with Kathy's cousin, Nick and his friend Chelsea, and Alice and Ciara. Both Kathy and I enjoyed a couple of beers and many laughs.
An older couple sat at an adjacent table were enjoying our polite banter and we began chatting. They had overheard the cycle talk and wanted to know more.....another who, why, what etc ☺

When they eventually stood to leave, both passed £5 each towards Kathy's just giving fund.
After they left, Nick invited Kathy to a free hairdressing session on condition that the usual cost would go to Kathy's just giving fund. We have met so many kind and friendly people on this trip proving that there are more good folk out here than otherwise.

At the end of the evening we all parted feeling that all is well with the world.

...........

The morning after the night before and tiredness/last nights cider is all causing Kathy's spacial awareness (I can't spell dyspraxia 😁) was in full swing causing her to whack her head 3 times before breakfast.

Next we visited Nick's hairdressing salon (Zero Four) for the promised haircut before meeting with former Bournemouth neighbour, Linda. After lunch with Linda, she put a very generous sum of money on the table which is also added to Kathy's fund.

The generosity of folk who are supporting our effort is quite staggering. Thank you all, we have reached a total of £790 so far. Thank you.xxx

After lunch we headed for the Museum of Liverpool which I highly recommend if one is in the area. We enjoyed a very pleasant couple of hours with Linda who was happily reminiscing adding to the pleasure for all of us.

As our visit to the museum came to an end and before we headed for the Protestant Cathedral, Linda declared that she needed to get home so we said our farewells and promised to meet up next May before we go to Isle of Man for the TT.

As Linda drove away, I had an expected failure of energy, my temperature went through the roof and we searched for bottles of water and paracetamol. Sadly the failure of my body meant we had to cancel an evening with cousin Nick and his children and we grabbed a taxi and headed for the hotel so I could rest.

I am still too warm as I type, 5 hours after feeling 'weird' but have belief that tomorrow will see me back to ..... MY normal. This is not unusual for me/us anymore, and with adjustments we know, through experience, that we can continue to enjoy ourselves..... maybe without the 3rd Guinness ☺.

After a large evening meal at the Dolby Hotel we have retired to our room to complete packing for tomorrow's 40 mile ride to Preston via a stop-off to meet up with Bryan who I have not seen for 30-odd years.

A demain, as the French would say 😀







PS

Kathy's ex, Mark continues his stay in hospital and now has limited movement in his arms, but no feeling in gius legs. If you are a believer in a greater being and ifnyou believe that the greater being is capable of providing speedy and full recovery, please remember Mark. He is a lover of all outdoor activities and to lose the ability to enjoy life ad he did prior to the accident would be a huge shamne for him, his dasighters and his friends.

Maybe our next rtde will have to be for Southampton hospital.......and the two girls can take part too, if only some of the way!

Day 27... we think


We waved goodbye to 3 cyclists that we met at yesterday's campsite, one middle-aged couple from Holland, touring northern England by bike and a young university student on a week's cycle tour to escape from the world and recover from his first year's efforts. Good luck to the three of them.

Leaving Chester we headed NW with a strong SE wind on our backs. The light drizzle soon stopped and the 25 miles of very flat terrain soon passed without any noteworthy incident. It was so easy that I used up only 1,000 calories!

To Kathy's delight we arrived at the ferry terminal on the Mersey bringing the famous tune of ' Ferry, cross the Mersey' to her lips and another tick in the box on her Bucket List. For some reason she was then began singing Fairy cross the Mersey......which she clearly found very amusing, if her giggling was anything to go by.

On arrival in the great city, we soon had the cameras out to capture images of famous buildings and a variety of statues, the newish one of the Beatles being our favourite, for now.

We are lodged in the Dolby Hotel, half a mile from Albert Docks. This place is perfect for us. They have provided an unused room for our cycles and tenting equipment..... many thanks to the duty manager...... 'as its easier  than using the shipping container outside'. Once more, we are the recipients of unsolicited kindness.

Tonight we meet up with Alice and her lady as well as a cousin of Kathy's so, with luck, we will enjoy a very pleasant evening. My two day beard growth is making me look rather unkempt, so I hope no-one complains.......but Kathy's just giving fund is the beneficiary, so I shall put up with the look.
Tomorrow we meet with a lovely lady, former neighbour of ours, Linda, who moved back home to Liverpool to be closer to her family. We expect that reunion to be very cheerful indeed.

Tomorrow we shall have a nose around town, pick up a few pieces we need and recover from tonight's gathering and then onwards to meet up with another former RAF colleague, Bryan, before going further north to Preston.

Day 22/23/24

As night became day the breeze dropped, the drizzle increased and the midges fed well on me.
We packed away the wet gear, and headed off.....Kathy cycling along the campsite road. 'Kathy, you have flat front'....'how didn't you know', I laughed/sighed knowing that the opportunity for an early start had gone.
Bags off, wheel off, tyre off, tube out, new tube.....still in its Halfords wrapper showing 29 inch tube.......but its a 26 inch!!!!

Fortunately the campsite owner is an astute chap and stocks tubes as well as camping and food spares, so with a correct sized tube to hand and a borrowed stirrup/track pump (great tool) we soon had the bike back together....only 30 minutes lost. The small audience that had gathered then wanted to know who, why, what, where, when and how we were doing this trip and a further 30 minutes was lost chatting with some lovely folk.

The directions worked a treat and we were soon descending along the gentle rolling slopes alongside the river Dee to Corwen.
Just outside the town we stopped to confirm directions ....... I had misread my notes, (the notes were correct) and I wanted confirmation that we were heading the correct way, and a chat ensued.  Once directions were provided the local man asked about who, why, what....etc we were up to, which ended with a discussion about the country-wide demise of chapels and churches about which Max Boyce penned some words and the tune of Ten Thousand Instant Christians.
Onwards to Llangollen we went, only realising that the drizzle had ceased when we began to struggle for power on the upward slopes because we were too warm. We soon rolled into town and found the Abbey Campsite.... the camping area completely encircles an ancient abbey.

.............

The campsite was very noisy with an 18/30 party/festival atmosphere, with the noise being made by large groups of middle age folk and their off spring.
The least pleasing aspect was to hear the parents shouting increasingly loudly a child's name......followed, equally loudly, with, 'dont make me come find you', more than once with an expletive thrown in there too.
PS
In the morning, as the camp awoke,  the child's revenge went in to full swing, with, ' Mum/Dad (delete as necessary) where's my ......', .....obviously repeated several times and naturally, increasingly louder, until 'the item' is handed to the little 'darling'.

The two adults and brood next to ours then fired up their respective cars, walked away from them leaving the engines ticking over while re-sitting to enjoy a brew. Bizarre!
I was tempted to offer them a thought on green house gasses but I chose to pack away the gear and leave without a word being shared.

Back to more jolly things, eh.
......................


We arrived from Bala at the campsite at 1.30, put up the tent and were soon back on the bikes for the 1 mile trip into town to meet up with 1st son, Ben and his family, Lyd, Imi and Lyla. We had a wonderful afternoon with the four of them, two very happy grandparents looking on at a fine young family.
We ate on the veranda overlooking Llangollen Town Falls which allowed us to enjoy the steam train tooting and firing up as well as some kayaks and rafts to tackle the falls, to the amusement of us all.....and the excitement of little Imi......who declared 'I like this water' ..... a potential kayaker?
We then enjoyed a walk up river to play and paddle in the cooling river after a play in the playground.

Around 5 pm, we waved goodbye as they headed back to Lyd's parents place and us for the campsite/Jeremy Kyle show via the shop. As we arrived back at our tent Kathy's phone rang and we received the sad message that Mark, her ex, had been involved in an accident and was in Southampton hospital being cared for by the neurology team. Our best wishes go out to him, his daughters Suzie and Sophie and his wider family plus friends.

If a message of confirmation was needed to remInd Kathy and me to 'get on with it' Mark's accident is just the thing. Live life, love it but do it safely!

Tomorrow we push on to Chester.

Day 25

We arrived after a trouble free ride, other than a 2 mile diversion where NCR signing was incorrect. Lesson learned! The 35 mike route was flat other than two small climbs and after a stop for food we arrived at Birch Bank Farm campsite, a beautiful campsite being quiet and spacious and only 4 miles from Chester.

Late on we were joined at the site by another couple, from Nederland who are on a cycling tour around northern England.

Tomorrow is a rest day and then we head for Liverpool to see relatives on both sides of the family.







Day 20 - PS


We were recovering from the day's activities at the campsite near Bala, Wales, after a great day. As we sat in the pod, a car of four youngsters.... 25? yr olds....  arrived and were trying to erect a tent.
After several minutes Kathy O'Keefe asked me 'what nationality do you think they are....Norwegian? Dutch? ....
I listened a while......laughed .... ... they are Scouse! 😂. Memories are made of this, as Jim Reeves said.☺

Day 21

Today is white water day 😁 ..... whoop, whooooop!

We can hear the noisy water from our tent in which we sit to avoid the drizzle........ but the midges are unavoidable. Heyho, can't have it all.

As head chef of this expedition I have had to accept an ' I'm not complaining, but......" from one of the two-person group about the CRISPINESS!!!!!  of the cooked bacon and sausages.
I tried not to laugh, but my body language probably gave away my  amusement. I politely accepted the comment with 'OK, princess, my team and I apologise for the lack of ....... crispiness and the cheffing team will try better to please'. The princess has walked off happy. Win/win 😁

Crispier sausages n bacon it will be today......normal service will resume by tomorrow......if I have the nerve!

After breakfast was consumed, crispier-bacon-than-normal included, we headed for the White Water Centre. After a good briefing, we donned wetsuits and hats, collected our paddles and headed for our rafts.
We spent 2 hours on the river and had a brilliant time. One would need to be without personality to fail to enjoy the rafting. We were given 4 runs and after each trip the river guide asked us if we wished to 'up the action' and all 4 of us answered 'yes, please', immediately.

He had us spinning on the rapids, bumping the rocks, stranded on the rocks above a waterfall, we slid down sideways and eventually had us all leaning left and both Kathy and I tumbled out. Brilliant fun with fantastic management of both visitors and craft.
On the 3rd run the guide had us facing up river and we slowly paddled against the current allowing the nose of the raft to rest against the waterfall ...... causing the water to spray us all until the raft was half filled at the front and soaking all 4 occupants causing much laughter.

I can't remember what we paid and I don't care. Nor do I care that the two hours of rafting will have cost us 5 days extra cycling. It was worth all of it.

We were reluctantly back to the campsite all too soon where we recovered with a brew then a kip. Life is good......live it.


Day 20 ....... to Bala and white water rafting 😁


Good day, world!

Last evening we had a great long chat with a pair from New Zealand who are on a 4 month tour of Europe and we listened eagerly to tales of this trip and others that they have enjoyed, encouraging us yet further to enjoy more adventures.

...............

Soon after that chat, we received a very sad message saying that one of Kathy's uncles, Allen, has died. Allen was a high energy, amusing, talkative, friendly and welcoming gentleman who always raised the humour level given an opportunity. As an ex Royal Marine Commando he had standards that few others could expect to reach and he accepted those folk with patience and good humour.....even ex Army officers....(what purpose do they serve,' he asked me, once. My reply, as an ex-RAF chap was, ' Allen, someone has to switch on the kettle'! 😈
For his immediate family .... wife - Monica and two daughters, Rosie and Ruth, his wider family and multitude of friends, his passing will be one of great sadness. As someone who met Allen, a dozen times or so, I will cherish the comparatively few moments I enjoyed in the presence of a fine man. RIP Allen ..... you will be forever in our memory.

.................

This morning we woke to the sound of country living ; the shallow river Dee tumbling over the rocky riverbed which meanders through the fields, a gentle breeze rustling the hedgerows and trees, many birds chirping, cockerels and hens crowing and clucking...... and sheep - ofcourse 😀.
To add to the beauty, not a vehicle to be heard ....... but I am sure that the steam train from Llangollen will change that before much longer.
For the first time since leaving Devon, we have cloud cover but I wont complain as today we head further into Wales, to Bala, for some non-cycling fun, and to get there we must tackle more high heart-rate hills.
As we set off the cloudbase dropped to cover the hills tops and the finest of drizzle began to coat our clothes and bags. Soon we were warm, but soaked, and enjoying the not so gentle slopes as we worked, gradually upwards, to Bala.
After 20 miles and 1500 calories of uneventful cycling we arrived in Bala at the same time as the drizzle ceased, the clouds lifted and the heat of the sun quickly dried off everything. Perfect.

A pasty and chocolate covered treat  was enjoyed by each of us soon after shopping was bought and loaded on to the bikes.  We followed our directions to the campsite.....out of shop, right, cross roads....straight. At top of hill , right.

The hill is brutal, 149 beats per minute brutal! Poor Kathy who had just added most of the shopping to her bike really struggled and, at the crossroads at the top needed a few moments to recover her breath and general composure (her response to my question of 'are you ready' was a violent V sign....... She was incapable of voicing the meaning as she was still gasping for breath! 😁
 The folks who have sponsored Kathy and her Bournemouth Hospital fund have definitely getting their money's worth today ☺.

Soon we arrived at Tyn Cornel campsite, adjacent to the white water centre where we hope to get an adrenalin rush tomorrow. It's a great site with a really nice owner and I highly recommend this place if you need to camp in the area. The owner is a young chap in his early 30s, I would guess, and another person who enjoys long distance cycling trips. Having swapped tales with him, we have added more adventures to our ever- growing Bucket List. ☺

Next....a kip, a visit to the water centre and then soak up the dry, warm Welsh weather. Ain't life wonderful?


Day 19......Llangollen and beyond


The morning was cool as the whole area was blanketed in mist/fog  but it soon warmed.
We set off as usual on a bck lane route, heading for Chirk and it's famous viaduct. Suitably impressed, photographs taken, we carried on for Llangollen.
Within a few miles we came to the world famous, Telford-built viaduct at Pontcysyllte. We chose to walk over both viaducts with the drop from both being enormous.
As we went further towards the canal holuday resort of Llangollen it was noticeable that less and less canal users were acknowledging our existence, one or two studiously diverting their gaze as we approached them on their expensive canal boats.
Today was the first time that we have encountered such city-like 'blindness' and we both felt disappointed by such unsociable behaviour in a beautiful and relaxing environment.

After dropping off the canal in Llangollen for some shopping, we left the canal path for the local lanes.
Llangollen is definitely worth a visit - at any time of year but more so once the rains have restarted and the river Dee is flowing fast and noisily. A kayaking mecca where my kids practiced, and competed, very often.

I remember my Ben coming to me, most excited, that (name forgotten) 'the current World Champion (kayaking) is here and spoke to me and gave me some great tips'
Much later that evening, travelling home Ben mentioned that the same chap worked a 5 day week in the shop on the weir, still lived at home in the town with his Mum and was driving a clapped out Ford to get around.
In those days an average footballer would have been earning upwards of £25,000 a week and no doubt driving a highly expensive car.
I was not shocked when a year later Ben announced that he was not intending to persue (achievable) great heights in the kayaking world, not if the world champion struggles to get by.

After leaving Llangollen, we encountered many long steep hills worthy of granny gear, my highest heart rate reaching 147....which should be acceptable to the medical staff and Kathy ☺.
In the 10 miles from Llangollen we meet only 2 cars, a cyclists idea of heaven. Hills and no vehicles. With the A5 on the other aside of the valley, it is little wonder that those magnificent lanes are so little used and you will hear no complaints from us about that ☺.

Within an hour we found our campsite of choice, a delightful place, rural in build and location. Carrog Station Campsite is located at the far end of the Thomas the Tank Engine steam railway that runs from Llangollen along the banks of the river Dee.

Currently run by a local family, the showers and toilet facilities are contained within a modern barn which is refreshing from the huge expensive? buildings we have seen at some places.

And now an afternoon's recovery kip, eat, drink and prepare for the big ride up to Lake Bala tomorrow for some rafting.

Day 18 ......rest day

After a very pleasant evening in Ellesmere, we have woken to another warm morning .... and a rest day. We have cycled for 3 consecutive days and a rest will prepare us for our next diversion.
The diversion will take us westward/left from Ellesmere to pass through the interesting town of LLangollen before heading deeper into our beloved Wales. The reason...... is to enjoy a spot of white water rafting on the river that drains into Lake Bala. This planned diversion has added a week to the trip, but, if my memory serves me correctly - and we know it may not, it will be a worthwhile venture.

The controlled flow of water is used for Olympic level kayaking and I recall proudly watching my sons Ben and Dan compete on that swirling and violent water as they fought their way down the course, sometimes dropping 4 or 5 feet as the water cascaded down the hillside.
I also remember the first time we went to watch an event at Bala. They had been kayaking for about a year on a gentle river at Stone, Staffordshire (where my daughter Clare, now a PE teacher, first enjoyed kayaking, eddies and rapids) and competing on similar rivers around the country.
We stood on the small wooden bridge at the bottom of the kayaking course, where the roar of the water was similar to that of a jet engine; deafening, challenging, thrilling and very enticing. The sparkle in the boys' eyes was a real pleasure for me to witness, as it would be for any parent.

Those kayaking trips are the reason for this diversion...... to allow Kathy to gain some kind of understanding of the above and for us, as a couple, to then enjoy something else together that each of us can carry forward as a (hopefully) good memory.

Today we restock food and gas while 'recharging the batteries' in preparation for the Welsh hills and all it can throw at us.




Day 17

Yet another hot one was forecasted so we rose at 6, ate porridge and were on our bikes by 7.30......well, we would have been. Kathy chose departure time to put a little extra air in her tyres. As she attached the adapter to the tube, the tube deflated, and a sad and confused Kathy looked at me with puppy dog eyes and a look of deep apology. I tell  you dear reader, noone is capable of refusing to step in.

It wasn't long before we were happily under way, shirts dripping from a good soaking.

We took the very steep descent from the campsite very cautiously before snapping left and found our first hill of the day.......which continued for 50 minutes and rather steeply in places.
Leaving Ironbridge we headed for Little Wenlock, a tiny village perched on the side of the tall hill, overlooking Telford, The Wrekin.

The Wrekin was a half way point on training rides when I lived at the local RAF base and I cautioned Kathy about the steep downhill run and a poor surface with many places to tip us off the bikes. I forgot to warn about the local drivers who would be on their commute or doing the school run. Thoughtless, reckless, ignorant, impatient......I have nothing positive to say, that's for sure.  

Grumble over.

We arrived at the foothills of the Wrekin and continued speeding our way along the gentle downward slope for a further 3 or 4 miles.
We soon passed my old RAF base and headed for Harmers Hill and the houses built in to the sandstone rock.

Before too long we arrived in Ellesmere our destination town for today. We stopped at the junction where the Llangollen and Shropshire Union canals meet just in time to see a 60 feet barge attempt...... and fail.......to do a multi point turn. The poor 'driver' was muttering about this and that but had the good humour to cheerfully wave in response to the applauds of the onlookers as he eventually headed off in the his chosen direction.

After completing a 2 day shop, on the quayside, we headed 800 metres to Newnes campsite, greeted by a Swansea-born former farmer, with a grand sense of humour. The campsite offers wonderful views of the valley floor stretching into the distance. If it wasn't so breezeless and sunny, this location would be perfect for us, but its still better than the rain of Devon, eh.

To make the day perfect,  anotyery former RAF colleague of mine, Ian Dowgill still living locally, called to say 'let's meet up for a meal, beer and chat'. Brilliant. If more folk were like Ian, this world would be a better place. I could go on about Ian's fine qualities and probably still not the man justice. Ian and I worked together at RAF Shawbury, where, nearly single handedly he ran 4 sections, doing so brilliantly, with both humour and grace  Suffice to say, if one could choose a brother, one would choose Ian.



Day 16


Last evening, after chatting on the camping pitch, we were invited to the Temeside pub for refreshment by Paul (a former Welsh miner) and Heather, both of Wrexham. They are a happy couple who shared similar stories to ours, memories of life-changing times, who chuckled easily. Fine folk.
The pub, on the other hand awaits an interested owner and staff.
On a Saturday night with two visibly 'relaxed' staff, with seats for 100 diners plus other seats for casual drinkers, there were a sad total of 16 of us, 8 once the local boy racers left. Doooooomed as Private Frazer on Dad's Army would have uttered.

We awoke very early and, as quietly as possible, cooked a hearty breakfast while also repacking the kit and commenced the writing of this all in the cool of the morning. The day promised to be a near-breezeless and blue-skied day. A hot one! Sun block and lots of water again but no complaints as it could be so very different.
See the blog for arriving in Okehampton, lol.

We set off very early (for us), around 8.00 to avoid the midday and afternoon heat. We completed today's ride at noon, having cycled 35 miles and burned 2200 calories.
The original route from Little Hereford sent us up and over Clee Hill, but on wakening, realising it was Sunday and all roads would be extra quiet until 10 (a time when car booters and other shopaholics go out to play), I changed the route and headed westward for Ludlow and then slowly looped clockwise around to Ironbridge via Much Wenlock .

While in Ludlow, checking the route, a local lady struck up conversation with us. We told her our destination and her eyes lit up. 'My mother and grandmother were from there, just down river from the bridge, a white house' ........and I interrupted her to add 'the ground floor of which floods every winter'. She looked shocked, but happy.
'Yes', she agreed, ' each winter, they would move all of the furniture upstairs and then rent another place further up the hill. How do you know?' I went on to explain that while living at the nearby RAF base, I nearly bought that very same house. Bless her, she was thrilled and waved us on our way, calling 'be safe' as we went.

The A49, as predicted, was ghostly quiet in comparison to its normal Mon thru Sat state allowing us to make safe and speedy headway along the flat road.  5 miles in and a right turn took us through the Ludlow racecourse and so began the most gentle of rolling climbs lasting nearly 10 miles. The sun warmed us and we  stopped to drink and soak our shirts every 20 minutes.
A further 10 miles we went on to far lumpier climbs eventually reaching Much Wenlock, a quaint little town worthy of a morning's visit. As I stood photographing the Guild Hall an elderly lady stopped to ask... 'have you seen the whipping post?'.....how kinky I thought (and nearly said).
She pointed out the shackles where folk who had contravened the local rules/laws were once given a lashing.......some grumpier oldies, such as myself, would not object if such treatment could be brought back for repeat offenders.

Did you know that Mr William Brooke's of this town was the originator of the modern Olympics, 50 years prior to 1896 Athens games. So much to learn in a delightfully pretty town.

She then dragged us into the (one roomed) museum where she treated us to a personal guided tour, demanded that she be allowed to take our photo which would be put on the town web site......fame/infamy at last.....and then asked for Kathy's charity details, also to be loaded on to the website. Again, so many nice folk who wished to play a part in our adventure......and they are all  very welcome.

After the 30 minute break in MW, feeling rather heavy legged, we headed off for Ironbridge. A sweeping 4 mile decent brought us to Coalbrookdale before a rather naughty hill led us to today's camping spot, perched on top of the hill.  Irongorge camp site is a MUST if one wishes to visit the area. Small and perfect......just like me 😂

Meanwhile, we are off to see THE iron bridge in Ironbridge ...... in addition to seeing the white house that floods😀

Life is for living. Live it, love it, do it well!



Days 14 and 15


Today is recovery day. After sitting up chatting with Al Jones until quite late and myself having consumed 3 pints of Guinness ....... after copious amounts of lime and soda, we followed the plan, cycled 7 miles out of town and then stopped at a lovely and friendly campsite near Ashleworth, called stone end house farm.
The caravanning fields is protected by high hedges, and behind that is the place for tenting......I thank cousin Mark Jenkins for that word ☺ .......the tents are located in an blissfully tranquil cider-apple orchard....... and I write these few words, sat resting in the shade provided by the apple tree canopy. With my back resting  against a tree trunk of one of those trees and with a gentle cooling breeze the perfect resting day is there for the enjoying. The rains and high winds of Devon are a distant memory.

On the food front, we have had a slight mishap and we are left with insufficient food for tomorrow's ride. We shall HAVE to find somewhere or my body will get quickly depleted, my blood pressure will quickly rise and ANYTHING Today is recovery day. After sitting up chatting with Al Jones until quite late and myself having consumed 3 pints of Guinness ....... after copious amounts of lime and soda, we followed the plan, cycled 7 miles out of town and then stopped at a lovely and friendly campsite near Ashleworth, called stone end house farm.
The caravanning fields is protected by high hedges, and behind that is the place for tenting......I thank cousin Mark Jenkins for that word ☺ .......the tents are located in an blissfully tranquil cider-apple orchard....... and I write these few words, sat resting in the shade provided by the apple tree canopy. With my back resting  against a tree trunk of one of those trees and with a gentle cooling breeze the perfect resting day is there for the enjoying. The rains and high winds of Devon are a distant memory.

On the food front, we have had a slight mishap and we are left with insufficient food for tomorrow's ride. We shall HAVE to find somewhere or my body will get quickly depleted, my blood pressure will quickly rise and ANYTHING could occur. I shall try to resolve the problem by scouring , on Googlje Maps, the towns/villages on our route for tomorrow, but most of our routes avoid busy places. Keep em crossed for me.
Late in the evening, a fellow camper volunteered the info that a store could be found no more than 800 metres away, so the food, and blod pressure issue is solved by yet another kind soul.
Mightily relieved I can rest for the hot day's cycling that lays ahead. Plenty of bottles of water will be carried, needed and used, I am sure.

After 4 litres of water, 44 miles and 3200 calories we have arrived in a beautiful,l, HOT, and expensive, campsite sitting on the banks of the river Teme in Little Hereford.
A robin has already visited, received nothing and disappeared. Could this be our friend from south of Gloucester 😁?

Our route here took us on an hours worth of very flat lanes before we reached the Malverns when the roads became gentle rolling hills for a further hour to pass the 3 counties showground.
Thereafter we were treated to cheeky, first gear slopes that once again broke my promise to the doc. While resting atop one of those hills, I was chatting with a middle-aged chap who was cleaning the edge of the road. Enjoying his rest, as I was mine, we chatted about the trip we are on. When I prompted him for confirmation of route, he could not bassist, having  only recently arrived from Croydon in South London. My word what a contrast is the hilltop village to dirty, busy, smelly Croydon. I told him that I had schooled near there and him knowing the school told me that he had been a headmaster in New Addington. I am sure his retirement in rural Worcestershire will be fair payment for his efforts in NA.
And so we pressed on, encountering yet more cheeky slopes worthy of  promise-breaking heart rate if 150-plus.
With the expected 40 miles completed we failed to find the campsite and continuing northwards, dropped down a very long, and sometimes steep, descent into Tenbury Wells.
The folk in the Butter Market (a beautiful round building that was rebuilt in the 1830s) made a couple of phone calls and found us a nearby campsite. TW looks worthy of a mornings visit to admire the very old buildings.

Tomorrow we head for Ironbridge, Father's Day and a pre-organised visit from eldest son and delightful family.
Till then, drink, eat and sleep all being done while keeping out of the sun.





Day 13


This morning, while contemplating the world and drinking a brew, a robin came to visit, several times.....cheeping at me. I watched the bird for a while and, crushed a precious custard cream biscuit and threw the crumbs on to the grass to feed the bird.

Soon it was hopping around in the doorway, once on to my shoe......a great way to start the day.

Having said our goodbyes to Neil and Jo, the cyclists heading south (into the wind......not my idea of fun, lol), we headed for Saul, for a quick brew and a chat with 3 very nice folk, one of whom knew about Saul in its RAF days as a maintenance unit for flying boats!
At the same quay were ancient lifeboats and other craft, which all added up to making the stop very worthwhile.

Once more, waving goodbye to chatty and interesting folk, we cycled with the breeze blowing us along on lovely, quiet country lanes, without incident, into the centre of Gloucester where we passed a former lighthouse-ship....which is for sale. 😀. You never know........

Into the city to see some very interesting buildings and street art.  It's not quite Bristol docks but there is work afoot to move in that direction.
Our accommodation is a rickety old place, The New Inn, which was in existence in 1552 when the crown was being squabbled over by two cunning and competitive females. One, Jane, lost and her rival Mary, put Jane in The Tower and not long after, chopped off Jane's head. Who'd be a rival , eh? ....a yes man is the safest route, so it seems 😀

Outside our room was a highly protective seagull which was taking care of it's mate and new born.......aw v cute, until a displeased adult seagull let us know that it was best to keep away from the window.

We took a stroll to the old docks and quay where we spied some sailboats of interest before taking a look around a lovely old Norman-built church containing delightful architecture, especially the windows. The volunteer guide, probably in her 80s gave us 15 minutes of her time in which we put the world to rights and gave her some, hopefully useful and encouraging, information about electric bikes.

2 servings of lasagne (and a Guineas)  for myself and just the one (and a half of cider) for the lovely Kathy has completed another very pleasant day.

We are aware of our good fortune having the time and desire to take on this trip and openly hope that we can enjoy many more.

And another day closes after an evening with my old mate from my RAF days, Al Jones. A great time, thanks for giving us your precious time this evening. Let's not leave it 25  years till we do that again.

Day 12


We awoke to a warm morning, the dew glistening in the sunlight and all seemed well with the world.

After the usual pre-ride procedures were completed and I had topped up on paracetamol, we set off and immediately encountered our first slope. The temperature quickly rose and a stop to soak our tops and take a gulp of refreshing water was necessary ...... far earlier than previously on this trip. As the rolling hills took their toll, the frequency of stops increased. Fortunately we each carried 5 litres of water and by the 20 mile point our stops also included a good amount of shade.
Our directions worked a treat as we slowly climbed up to the ridge overlooking the Gloucester canal and river Severn beyond. The effort was rewarded with a truly spectacular sight, one that we would recommend if you are in the area. The sweep down at 37 mph was a lovely way to approach the day's end.

We found a very nice campsite, next to a pub,  10 miles south of Gloucester and immediately next to the Gloucester canal. Could one reasonably ask for more?

As we were about to turn in to the campsite, we met two ladies (their blog is found on facebook under twotyred,) also cycling LEJOG and once again we had a great chat and swapped experiences, wishing each other well as we went our separate ways.

Returning from the shower, I spied another couple arriving, fully laden and introduced myself. Once more I found us enjoying a friendly chat, sharing experiences and ideas....their idea being a garmin-like device. I, unusually for me, sat quietly and politely through the demonstration and ooohed and aaahed at all of the appropriate moments. I didn't relate to him our recent experiences ☺. Is it possible that I am be growing up at last? I hope not! 😈

Day 11

I awoke far too early, around 4.30, to the 'joys' of pigeons, crows, peacocks, hens and other wildlife informing everyone that they had survived another night and, clearly, were so delighted that we all had to know about this occurrence. Please excuse me for being rather Victor Meldrude (sp?) about this, but, another 2 hours sleep would have been my preference.

Anyway, awake and normal rituals completed, I then noticed the lack of a breeze, the stillness of air being notable after the recent days of high winds. Then ...... I am aware of my slowness in the uptake department ..... after another half hour or so, I came to realise that today's 30 mile cycle ride to Melksham was going to be unaided by a following wind. In the words of a popular TV character, how very bloody rude! 😀

'C'est la vie' I thought, as it could be a headwind, and we have high cloud cover hopefully ensuring that I won't get too hot......so, complain not, is the phrase of the day. ☺.

Well ....... 30 mins of cycling on the Somerset Flats suddenly turned into a 5 mile climb, followed by multiple Okehampton-type hills for the next 25 miles.
My directions..... or my attention to my directions .... took us off- route with us ending up in Oakhill chatting to a very nice lady, Beverley. She could not have nicer, offering 'drinks, food, anything you need'.

After she resolved my error, she waved us on our way and we headed for the former-mining town of Radstock to pick up the route once more.
The Mendips really got us today, providing us with many hills, one, coming out of Iford (go there, it's truly beautiful)  on which Kathy had to get off the bike and push.......that's a first! My heart rate went up to 161, so, be warned,  dont go there by cycle!

Once in Bradford upon Avon, surely the town with the most, mainly pointless, roundabouts in the UK, I took a wrong exit only realising after we had climbed yet another slope!
Tired, after 35 miles of cycling, I asked for directions to the nearest campsite. We have found a belter , Marsh Farm Caravan site!!!! I type this while sitting on a bank of the Kennet and Avon canal (I think 😀) and listening to canal boats putt-putting along.


On arrival, we found the reception closed and after asking a couple who are staying on the site, we were offered a brew while he rang the owner/manager and while waiting we all sat down to chat and put the world to rights. I genuinely cannot remember ........ nothing unusual there ....... encountering anyone on our travels who I would not be pleased to meet again.

Our dilemma now is whether or not to loiter here tomorrow to really take in the atmosphere or push onwards in the general direction of Gloucester where, in two day's time, we will meet up with my former-RAF colleague, Al Jones.






Day 10

The town of Glastonbury is gathered around a minster/abbey and a few surrounding streets with shops, mainly catering for the followers of alternative lifestyles. Some of the quaint and ancient buildings still remain and, in my opinion,  save the town....just!
As mid-June approaches, there is a build up of solstice worshippers as well as festival folk, all coming to the town to enjoy the shops and the unthreatening atmosphere......the festival itself takes place a good 5 miles from the town.
We are staying at Isle of Avalon campsite which is 200 metres from the town centre, fairly priced and once again populated with really nice, chatty and well-wishing folk, including the campsite owner.
This morning we enjoyed the 1.5 mile hike up the hill to the monument that is sat on top of Glastonbury Tor. I was reminded, as we went, by an information board, that Tor is a southern Celtic word for hill......and Ben is its northern equivalent. When I last 'enjoyed?' the LEJOG experience, I did so with my eldest son, Ben, and his very good friend, Torben. It struck me only a few months ago that Torben helped us travel from south to the north, passing  many Tors and Bens as we went.
As we returned to our tent, we had a lovely, very long, chat with a pavement artist.....who is seemingly dedicated to the alternative lifestyle in every way. He is , it appears, very well educated/read and would have talked to us for hours but our recently acquired pasties and quiches called us away.
Tomorrow we head for east of Bath and we hope that the good breeze continues to assist us, as before.


Day 9

During last evening and in a quiet moment I took some time to consider this blog, the daily riding, the relaxed happiness and the many conversations Kathy and I have had, with ourselves, and others.
It has become clear to me that, only a week has passed and already I have no recall of the vast majority of our time in Cornwall. I can however, recall 2 specific hills, interestingly both of which I feared as I knew of them from previous visits as a teen and I can recall one beautiful cove, immediayely adjacent to the very impressive Caerhays Castle (I had to google the name).
At the moment I have nearly full recall of the ride to Okehampton and again the ride, here to Taunton, both of which have truly leg-testing hills. I will try to remember to feed this info to my doctor when we return home to sunny Bournemouth, as it may help for an accurate explanation about what is/is not happening within my head and to provide me/us with a considered diagnosis.
Whatever the future holds, I increasingly recognise, is not in my control, but certainly what I/we can control is the fun Kathy and I have, both alone and with our respective children, while we go along the journey of life.

Deep, eh. Sorry 😊

So.....northwards, to Glastonbury and beyond ....... but only after ablutions, a brew or two and a cooked breakfast.
We set off once again grateful for the southwesterly wind and soon we were freewheeling at 15 mph. 'This won't take long' I thought, as we hit the 5 mile point to pick up the canal path.
Along the tow path we travelled, passing many walkers, runners and cyclists and I had drifted away in to my own little world so deeply that I was unaware of another 2 cyclists saying 'hello, hello' as they attempted to squeeze passed me.

Apologising, as they passed I did wonder why they didn't use a bell, or like far too many cyclists, maybe they didn't have one between the two.
Anyway, on we all travelled, they speedily disappearing into the distance, we, trundling along like 2 middle age oldies, making our slow and contented way.
There are several chicanes built on the path, probably to discourage speedy folk, and while we navigated one, Kathy lost control of the front wheel, sliding dangerously close to the side of the canal (and the loss of bike, kit and termination of the trip) only saved by the canal side post that took a might whack.

At the next lock we reported our teen-like destructive behaviour and then asked for directions away from the canal path as the route we wished to use is was now blocked with a 'no through road'.
Turn yourselves around, through the smashed chicane......'no really, no need to apologise' the chap said, teasingly rolling his eyes at the thought of the extra work with which he had been burdened, and cheerfully waved us on our way to pick up the route........I think cheerfully as wee waved the sign of the Agincourt archers.

Unusually for me, I consulted herself-indoors .... or in this case herself-outdoors (aka queen slipstreamer) 😀 ..... and we took a gamble to follow the main road to Glastonbury. What a fine choice. Once more the wind pushed us along, sometimes up to 20 mph and very soon, we spied what we thought was Glastonbury Tor.

Rather disappointed with it's size, said the actress....  , we took a few distant photos then pushed on. As we arrived at the 'Tor' we found it to be called Barrow's Hump (and tiny,we later discovered) in comparison to the Glastonbury Tor itself.) Rather hopeful that the real Tor would be far more impressive, we pushed on and soon saw a tower standing high on its hill in the distance.

With no further dramas we arrived in town and soon after, found a campsite with a view of the Tor itself.
Today's ride of 25 miles used up 1200 calories......a massive difference to the ride in to Taunton, and today we achieved an average mph of 11.5.......so neither of us are complaining ☺
Tomorrow we shall climb the hill to tick off another item on my 'Bucket List', but maybe before that we shall have a glass of the red stuff.

Day 8


We awoke early with SUNSHINE!!!!! heating the tent......and then reality whacked us.
I reached, with half closed eyes, for my cycle kit and grabbed what felt like, a pile of wet rags. 
The side of the tent had lifted last night and the rain had entered the inner pod....soaking today's cycle kit. Fortunately the spare is in a dry bag and will be a fine substitute.

We then switched on the mobile to get the latest news discovering that the PM had run such an awful campaign that her one-time lead of 15 % was chopped dramatically by the Tom n Jerry party (a nod to my brother Damien), who to be fair had performed far better and spoke in more believable terms, except for finances, than May. Heyho, we are where we are, as my brother Gerard would say, and the breakfast and roads call us.

I will be back. Taunton here we come!


We left Exeter as the sun warmed our backs. The breeze continued to give us assistance as before and we made good headway.

Within 10 miles the warning signals alerted me that this was to be an 'interesting' day. First Kathy ran in to the back of me and soon after, while taking a drinks break, she dropped the bike! 


We were caught up by a fellow cyclist who then slowed to get our story. He is a wannabe LEJOGger but his wife won't let him. After a little chatting it turned out he had served as a policeman in the area around RAF Bride Norton where I had once served 7 years in the RAF. It's a small world, eh? Our policeman friend bade us good speed and cycled on his merry way leaving us to both admire his highly expensive and very light bike as he disappeared out of view.

Pushing on, the road signs began to give us problems. At first the same town/village was offered in opposing directions but soon the signs disappeared from the sign posts. Literally! We pushed on, following our trusty Google-Map provided handwritten directions to pass at least half a dozen sign-less posts. Most bizarre.

Once into the Black down hills, we encountered very long and very steep hills again, much as one would expect in Cornwall. Keeping an eye on my heart rate, we climbed slowly, stopping to get confirmation of our route whenever we saw anyone......which wasn't often.

As we climbed the final hill to to Culm Davy I saw a horse/rider approaching. I stopped about 50 metres short and called ahead to see if the rider wished us to stay still or pass. She waved us on and immediately the horse spun a 180 turn, so we naturally stopped and admired the skills and calmness of the young lady as she brought the huge, young stallion back under control and gently nudged him along to nervously pass us.

Soon we were on the top and flying, passing the monument overlooking the town of Wellington and onwards towards Taunton. As we sped down through a leafy wooded lane a small red ???? deer jumped into the road, stopped, turned to take a look at us and then calmly leapt out of the way of a petrified cyclist who could have done little if the deer had done anything different.

Onwards and ever downwards to Taunton to purchase supplies and then on to the charming campsite which is perfect in all ways ...... except for the sound of vehicles using the nearby M5. Too tired to move on, we accepted the noise, pitched tent, showered and are now relaxing and recovering.

My calorie count for today's ride is 3300..... an indicator that we worked pretty hard. My efforts today have left me overheating so paracetamol will be taken to ensure there ate no lasting effects that would give us reason to alter our plans.

So, dear reader, for the only time in this blog, I write a request. Kathy is riding to gain funds for Bournemouth Hospital who have cared for me so well, and as Kathy has cycled so very very hard, without a murmur of complaint about distance, bag-weights, hills or my directions I ask you to give her a lift by donating a pound or two in support of her TRULY heroic efforts.

Her page can be found on justgiving.com web site by then searching for Kathy O'Keefe. Lots of folk will benefit from anything you are able and willing to add to her page, and Kathy will be spurred on even more by your generosity. Thank you in advance.

Rest day tomorrow then onwards to Glastonbury, a place I have long wished to visit, especially the Tor. 

Day 7

Last night the southwesterly gale dropped to a good breeze and the rain ceased so we are hoping that the weather will stay this way or even improve further still.

During the night one of the inflatable mattresses (Kathy's) sprung a leak.......so I had a bad nights kip after offering mine......aw. ☺

So we will have to stop in Exeter to buy a new mattress and food then onwards to the north east of Exeter.

We quickly picked up speed getting over 30 mph several times as we dropped gradually off Dartmoor, speedily arriving in Exeter without any difficulties.

After a shop in Sainsbury's, other superstores are available, 😀 we headed for Go Outdoors for a replacement mattress. We were met at the door by two gents stood alongside their road bikes and within seconds we were engaged in conversation about this trip, some we had previously enjoyed and others that they had completed.

We were chatting for at least half an hour when, after we had posed for a photo and exchanged names Roger and ......  my apologies for forgetting the other's name, sir, ..... very kindly offered to show us the best way through the outskirts of Exeter before we separated, they for Dawlish and river Exe cycleway and ourselves to follow our intended route. More kind folk......there's a theme building!

The campsite was a further 5 miles ahead, on hills we know from a previous trip and we patiently ticked off each snappy climb before finding our resting place for the next two nights. To celebrate the completion of our first week, and today's lack of rain, Kathy has bought a bottle of the red wobbly stuff ...... and tonic water for me and both will be enjoyed tonight before having a day off tomorrow.

After erecting the tent and having plugged in the electric cable to allow us to enjoy a brew, we discovered the kettle no longer works so we have a small trip into Exeter tomorrow to purchase a new kettle as well as find a place that will allow us free WiFi to upload our latest info.

Day 6

We were woken early, by what I initially thought was traffic but it was the river behind the house. The river had, apparently,  risen by 4 feet overnight and was now a dirty brown, angry body of water.

As we sat to eat our breakfast the heavens opened once more adding yet more fuel to the fast flowing river. We said our cheerios and headed back out in to the rain to pick up our beloved NCR 27.....of garmin-fame..... only to discover that after 200 metres, at a T junction, the signs were absent.
Not to be put off, we took a left on to a busy road and headed NE for Okehampton and after a few miles we found a sign for 27 once more.
The SW breeze was blowing hard and we enjoyed a good few miles before the route became a track resembling my school day cross-country course rather than a cycle track. We pressed on, slowly, slipping and sliding on the bumps and mud. I was soon bounced sideways in to the hedge when my wheel clipped a large rock.
Unhurt and bike undamaged, we continued but in my mind I began to construct a 'forthright' letter to the NCR people, about not only their signs, or lack of, but the suitability of some of their chosen routes.

We were soon free of the stones and mud and back to dealing with very long and rather steep hills. My heart monitor was telling me that my heart was now beating over 150 and I had promised myself, the doctor and maybe more importantly, Kathy, that my limit would be 145. But those hills!!!!! Once on them, there is nothing to do but grind ones way to the top, slowly in our case.

Once again, I took a unilateral decision to jump off the 27 and follow a road sign for Okehampton, knowing that a some point we would be passing Lydford, where we could pick up The Granite Way, 10  miles of a former-rail track with very gentle slopes and would be nudged along by the ever strengthening breeze.

At the 5 mile point on this track, as we approached a gate, a hiker opened stood aside to allow us to pass without hindrance. We slowed to thank her only for her to call ....... 'Are you LEJOGGING'. Yes .... and mad was our reply. We soon struck up a conversation. She was walking from JOG to LE on her own, a rucksack weighing 16Kg. As with all the other folk we have met, we could have stopped to chat for hours but the rain gods were doing their best and we moved on.

We were soon in Okehampton and after a visit to the olde worlde railway station and its cafe, we headed into town, turned right and back into the hills of Devon. Another right turn took us off the steep main road and onto a 2k long very steep climb.
Soon with brakes full on we dropped into the valley beyond to discover the next steep,153 beats per minute, hill !!!!. Sorry doc, Kathy .

After 4 more hard climbs of a similar nature, we found the old A30, nearly unused nowadays, and with the 40 mph wind pushing us on we descended very quickly, passing a chap on a cycle struggling as he battled his way up the hill into the unforgiving wind.

Without much trouble we found our campsite of choice and pitched our tent. As the last peg went into the ground, the rain gods had one more shot at us and we dived unceremoniously under the edges of the tent and hid from the squall and downpour. Within a minute it had passed only for, 5 minutes later, another one to blow through.

So we sit hunkered down, with a brew, showered, warm, dry and very pleased with another day's efforts. 3000 calories burned in just under 4 hours of cycling so the packet of shortbread biscuits was fair reward, we think.

Time to cook, Tony, I have just been instructed by herself and I'll have another cup of tea first though. How could I possibly refuse such a mighty woman?

.............

PS to day 5.

On returning to our accommodation after a bite to eat in a local pub, the landlady asked us for our now-washed cycle clothes, jackets AND SHOES!!!!! so she can hang them up over the aga  allowing them to be comfy for us in the morning. As I have already said, there are so many kind and thoughtful folk out there.

Day 5 ....... Forevermore to be known as 'The Wet Day'

Due to the issues with tubes and cooker we bade farewell to Whitsands. It was blowing a hooly as we left, as it had all night , resulting in two slightly fatigued cyclists.

Into Plymouth we went with the 25 mph wind pushing us along, dangerously, at times.
The kind folk at Whitsands had recommended Caracamping on Union Street. What a place! Brilliantly helpful folk who couldn't do enough to assist us, including topping up our water bottles.
Armed with new cookers and gas at eBay prices we headed on through the city to find the greenway that doubles up as NCR 27. 10 miles of gradual climbing took us to a T junction where the signs disappeared...... We guessed to go right. As we descended into a valley, we stopped to enquire from 2 walkers if they knew the correct route for Tavistock.
They each dug out their Garmins, confirmed what they thought, down the hill, left, 3 miles on an unpaved track then a right on to NCR 27.....super! With a wave, thank you and fond farewell we followed the directions. After 2 miles the track narrowed, a lot, and we found before us a kissing gate. Strip the bags, lift over the bikes, remount the bags, push the bikes on up the muddy hill......all in the constant rain!
800 metres we encountered yet another bloody kissing gate, bags off, lift bikes, bags on! Damn Garmins!

Half an hour after 'losing' NCR 27 it appeared before us as if a miracle had occurred,  and with much relief we headed on for Tavistock. 2 miles later, once more it disappeared and I took the decision to follow the A road rather than encounter yet more kissing gates or Garmin owners.
As I made that unilateral decision, with Kathy who is aways trusting of my guide skills, the rain gods danced like never before and it wasn't long before small rivers were filling the kerbs.

Dropping into town, we found a supermarket and Kathy went off to shop, leaving me to stand guard (and munch on the sponge cake). While fulfilling my role, a lovely elderly couple came to chat, who, why, what, where, when.....another why (a fair question considering the diabolical weather and reduced temperature.

No, I am not collecting for any charity, but Kathy is, she's in there buying tonights evening meal.....see her, she has a just giving computer page.......but a friendly smile will cheer her up, I am sure. Kathy soon reappeared with her normal radiant smile to tell me, shopping done and a nice couple came a gave me a hug and said 'well done Kathy' 😀 we have met so many lovely folk already, restoring one's faith in humanity.

Feeling rather wet and cold we headed deeper in to town and with no argument from Kathy we started to search for a B&B. What a wonderful little cottage we have found, April Cottage, once again finding folk who cannot do enough for us, put the bikes away, dont worry about the floor, dry off, shower, warm up, come and chat in the kitchen.

Here's hoping that the weather man will provided better conditions for tomorrow's adventure.


Day 4

After a reasonable nights sleep, where I fretted a little about the 50 mile hilly ride ahead of us and the resulting effects to my body, we set off, deliberately slowly in the cool breezy morning.
Drizzle soon arrived to keep me cooled as we took on the first set of hills. The ups were rewarded with swooping hills taking us through tiny coves and beaches. Each was beautiful to look at but sadly we had to gaze and sigh at the beauty before us and then push on to the next wooded incline.

The drizzle ceased, the sun broke through and, in our happy state...... we missed a turn 😠.
After a correction by a local we arrived in Fowey and took the Brodinick?? Ferry and headed up another v long incline becoming drenched in a downpour . heyho. That's the south west for you. Onwards to Par, where an idiot BMW driver attempted to pass us on a very narrow road, half way up a snappy incline only to meet an oncoming car coming over the brow of a hill. With a screech of brakes and a stalled BMW behind us, we cycled on to the next 1k hill.

Coming out of Par both Kathy and I, in first gear, grinding our way up the very long hill were surprised when female runner caught up with us and slowed to attempt to engage us in conversation!!!!

Bemused at the strength of the , presumably local, lady, I nodded in partial surprise with her appearance.
I pedalled on, silently, incapable of anything more than a panted grunt in reply to her greeting ....leaving poor Kathy to do the replying, lol.
We eventually reached the brow of the hill with her 'good luck, have fun' ringing in our ears. We have already met so many nice folk, reminding us, yet again, that there are far more nice folk than otherwise.

Onwards to Looe choosing to stay on the faster and reasonably quiet road avoiding swoops to the picturesque coves and the resulting climbs. With the SW breeze nudging us along we enjoyed good speeds.

35 mph was the reward as we dropped down in to Looe where a pasty shop provided us with some 'fuel'. Half way up the very long hill, leaving Looe, I had a puncture. We do not usually use the P word.......it's an 'inflationary issue ' ☺ ..... on this occasion a large chunk of glass had pierced the puncture proofing and the resulting hiss forced us to stop for repairs.

Basgs off, tools out, tyre and tube off, spare tube in hand.... the spare tube has a car-type valve!!!!!  Massive error in planning!
30 minutes later after enlarging the valve hole in the rim, we were on our way, thankfully, with the sun shining.

We turned off right for the final 1k climb of the day, up to Crafthole, and the welcome sight of Rame Head in the distance. 3 miles to go!😊

Upon arrival at the campsite, we collected our pre-positioned tent and cooking gear and headed to our pitch ...... of gravel!!!!

Get the cooker on, tent up, and eat in 30 minutes....is our normal operandi. No, the cooker is truly rubbish.....we had bought a new cooker - didn't do a test-cook ...... more bad planning, and 2 hours later we ate but we have no gas left.

After a beer with some local folk, we gladly fell into our sleep bags and so closed another LEJOG day.

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Rest day

Yesterday was my the first time I had cycled 5 successive days since I was Ill, 3 years ago and I awoke feeling pretty happy.

A storm is blowing and I am glad that this is a rest day. We have hunkered down to sit it out having borrowed an electric hob from the kind camp staff and after a fine breakfast and agreeing a plan for a shopping trip to undo the poor planning with gas and tubes we climbed back into the sleep bags to stay warm and dry!

A climb down to the rocky beach for some obligatory photos, watch some children enjoying surf lessons, enjoy the sounds of the waves and childhood memories filled with freedom of 'the forgotten corner'.
Then the climb back to the campsite for a Sunday roast, probably an afternoon 'recovery' kip and then plan tomorrows escapades.

Stand by for an update.

Day 3

It's my birthday. Today I celebrate with the loveliest woman in the world, doing what we enjoy most.....cycling and in a fantastic county, my childhood stamping ground for 16 years of school holidays.

Every now and then life provides one with a reminder of ones good fortune. Today is such a day, surrounded by lovely, jolly, good folk in a lovely environment. Here's hoping the cycling will be as good, even if the hills are a little testing, lol

............

After 25 miles and a ferry ride from Penryn to St Mawes, we have arrived in Jago Cottages, Veryan -yet another fantastic B&B - perched on top of a hill. Marvellous views in abundance which have made the effort of climbing today's two 20% hills nearly worthwhile.

The bikes and legs are doing well and we trust that after a hearty meal this evening and again tomorrow breakfast time that we will be well prepared for a very tough day tomorrow. Tomorrow's weather forecast promises a following breeze but the route plan promises 9 seriously tough hills in the 50 mile trek. Keep them crossed for us.

Day 2

We headed north going through Newlyn and Marazion using very quiet country lanes to our first enroute stop at Orion's B&B in Godolphin Cross. This place is fabulous. It would be worth a visit to Cornwall to stopover here. Wonderful.
The 22 mile trip here was deliberately slow, ave speed just over 9 mph with enough cheeky long slopes to keep us interested. The plan through Cornwall is to protect my body where possible, use granny gears more than I would have chosen previously, in an attempt to avoid me getting too hot as well as avoiding the heightened blood pressure that high heart rate will naturally bring.......hopefully avoiding more bleeds/fits/issues.


Day 1

We arrived in Salisbury after a fun ride with a following breeze, fully loaded. Both of us coped well with the 2 cheeky slopes in the New Forest and arrived at out 'compact' accommodation without any dramas.
We met a lovely couple, also cyclists who pointed us in the direction of a web site, warm showers, a site that encourages cyclists and walkers to open their doors to fellow enthusiasts. Brilliant.


Early the next morning we arrived at the station to head to Plymouth. The guard offered to help to load my bike......oh my God, he squeeked....that's heavy. Well, the bags and tent weigh in total 40 kg.

Soon we were in Plymouth and cycling to Torpoint Ferry to hand over 35kg of my kit and 20 kg of Kathy's to a taxi driver who will preposition that gear, hopefully, lol, at reception at Whitsand Bay .......a childhood stamping ground of mine.

After a dash back to Plymouth and on to a slow and stuffy train to Penzance we arrived, hot and bothers 10 miles and quite a few cheeky hills from the starting point. The prep has been worth the effort.

Off the train......eat, we agreed. Kathy starred while we lunched on the prom at Newlyn, stating that 'that......pointing at St Michael's Mount ...... looks just like St Michael's Mount.
I did try to avoid the sarcastic tone, but failed, and as I chuckled through my mouthful of pasta, I nodded and agreed with her pearl of wisdom, with, Yes, it does rather .............. because it is! We both knew she meant the French equivalent, but it has kept me going all afternoon, lol 😂😈

From Newlyn we headed to Land's End via The Minnack Theatre and the historic Portcurno beach all of which was wonderful with beautiful views, blue seas, a warm sun and gentle cooling breeze. Bliss
Now with feet on the windowsill with a brew, looking out over LE itself, we both feel blessed. We can only hope that the trip will bring us more laughter, memories and strong legs to encourage us to do more such trips.

• Night night all, from the tip of Kernow.......Feeling very lucky and blessed.